Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Zanzibarbarians

A marvellous two weeks on the spice island are just behind us, with the spectacular fine sand (as soft and sumptuous as shortbread dough according to Stephanie) of the beaches we visited still cascading out of hair and visible in ear canals.

Many incredible memories from the best family trip ever but by far the best is an early morning knock on our bedroom door with a race to the phone to hear from halfway around the world the ecstatic voice of brother Jeremy announcing that Janet had given birth to a daughter, Jennifer Alison Carr Fraser. Our whoops brought smiles to all and we are thrilled to be seeing photos of our new niece and cousin!

To see photos of the trip click here or go to:

http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/Zanzibar

The children all broke Guinness World Records for time spent in pools and the ocean and Lachlan, the most renowned heat seeker in the family, still has cheek cramps from smiling so much and has already vowed that he may be moving to Zanzibar one day. From his mischievous look and suppressed grin, several Victoria friends may be involved in Lachlan’s planned slacker schemes, so parents beware. He learned to swim in Zanzibar and it takes little imagination to jump ahead ten years and imagine this being used as an attention getter in beach conversations with young women he is courting!

The often painful history of Zanzibar with its voluntary and involuntary migrations echoed to us in the meandering stone corridors of Stonetown and ghosts seemed to silently surround us as we sweated in the subterranean slave chambers of the former slave market, now a museum / memorial and Anglican church inspired by the work of Dr. David Livingstone, among others, to redeem the site from its history of humanity at its worst.

But the present yields a more positive reality, with a rainbow of faces blending African, Indian and Arab shapes and colours and mosques situated alongside temples and churches. In the background amble the ever-smiling Tanzanian rasta dudes, scattered along the spectrum from casual (must be wearing red/yellow/green stripes at all times) to ecclesiatic (the name Haillie Sellasie is exhaled reverentially through narrowed, bloodshot eyes).

After Stonetown the beach beckoned. Exquisite coral gardens and fish which seemed painted by an inspired artistry of a school beyond random Darwinism dazzled us for days and Stephanie and I delighted to see our childrens’ flippers churning the water as they scooted after a new parrotfish or wrasse. Not so delightful were lionfish sightings but no difficulties ensued!

The spice island revealed itself on an amazing tour of the island centre , where clove scented air introduced an amazing array of the flavourful plants which are central to our lives but never before seen by us. As you can see from the photos it all went to our heads in an unfortunate way.

We send love and best wishes for the Holidays and the New Year to all. We await the arrival of Margie, Lonn , Ajay and Amecia tomorrow from Victoria and look forward to sharing an African year end celebration with them. They are coming heavily laden with bags containing all manner of items for the Kilema orphan program and even today Stephanie was mumbling, “could I use a scale right now”! Thank you very much to all the generous contributors who created a travel nightmare for Margie and Lonn, lugging some 5 duffels as they are. Asante sana especially to Sue, Colin, Chris W. and Carolyn (condom king and queen) and Margie who coordinated those efforts.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

World AIDS Day , Kilema



"Let's overcome AIDS Together" art project designed and coordinated by Rick Madore, CACHA Orphan Program Staff; Assistant to artist: Eva Fraser


We have just completed World AIDS Day ceremonies here at the hospital and feel a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration after a very moving display of concern , commitment and compassion from the hospital community, persons living with HIV/AIDS and children orphaned by HIV.

To see photos of the day please click here or go to:

http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/WorldAIDSDay

A blustery day greeted the nearly 500 guests to the hospital and Tanzanian determination and “can do” overcame shredded tarps and howling winds, producing very moving speeches (noted by observing intense and at times teary listeners, rather than any great Swahili proficiency on our part) and close attention from the audience of children and adults, who all stayed for the full ceremony and waited until nearly 3pm to eat the lunch provided by the hospital.

The community warmly received the news that the second floor of the CACHA building here, which will be fully devoted to serving orphans, is rapidly nearing completion and should open in February 2008. Our Canadian contingent here was called before the guests and warmly recognized for the work it has been moving ahead with here.


We have had many messages from friends and colleagues regarding planned Christmas donations to the Kilema Support Fund and we are thrilled at the enthusiasm to support the work we are doing here with CACHA. We feel that we can provide a great deal of practical support for immediate needs and future income generation opportunities for the orphans we work with if the fund can continue to accumulate funds in early 2008.

Regarding the fund, we are thrilled to announce to all blog readers that friend and acclaimed Victoria artist Galen Davison is donating 50% of the proceeds from all sales of his paintings to the Kilema Support Fund from now until Christmas.

Please check Galen’s website at: http://www.galendavison.com/kilema_support_07.htm and pass the link along to friends and colleagues.

The Fund`s Scotiabank account # is 20610 0110124 and the branch phone number is (250) 953-8100.

Orphans and Bibis

To view recent photos of bibis at home click here or go to:

http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/AfricanBibis

Most of the last two busy months have been occupied by visiting orphan children and their caregivers near Kilema hospital, in villages with names like Rosho, Lasso, Legho, Mrumeni, Kimamoroni, Kiraracha and Mkyashi. I am beginning to know where all the villages are and how to get there (even by myself at times) on red dirt roads that eventually dwindle into narrow footpaths. Here we jest, “this is not a road,” and keep on driving. As the rains have progressed the red clay surface becomes slick and little rivulets further the erosion process.

Every family has a story to tell about how they live, the family members who provide support, the productivity of the shamba, the number of animals which are a sign of wealth and sustain families with milk, eggs and meat. There are also discussions about those who have died, those who have run away, those who have been tested and who still needs to be. It often seems that a grandmother or mother is telling the story and that she has been there to catch those that remain after the losses.

Part of my work here has been to document some of the stories I come across for CACHA and for Dr. Nyaki, a clinical officer in the HIV Center and formidable woman. I include a few stories here.

Irene and Jessica

A short ride down the mountain from Kilema hospital to the village turnoff followed by a sharp climb uphill to the west and eventually we arrive at the home of two orphan girls sponsored by Kilema orphan program. Irene and Jessica are step sisters with ten years between them, daughters of the same mother that died in 2005 of HIV/AIDS. Their fathers are different men but both also passed away from the same treacherous disease that has infected 1 in 9 Tanzanians, perhaps a greater percent in this region according to local statistics. Irene is two years old and HIV positive and has not been seen at the CTC for regular follow-up. As the coordinator, Denis firmly encourages Bibi Margareta to come to the HIV center for assessment, I look around at the impoverished circumstances and a host of barriers to regular attendance at the distant clinic come to mind.

Bibi Margareta is a stern grandmother, with deep frown lines converging between her brow and a tight, fine lipped mouth set rigidly as though she has seen it all before. She has circles under her eyes and below the skin sags a bit so that her look is blend of exhaustion and unhappiness. She is slight enough that I check her closely for signs of illness but realise that hard unrelenting work is the cause of her wiry frame, not illness. In fact I feel grateful for her fitness as the children she is in charge of line up in front of us for greetings, five in all. Only two of these children are sponsored by the program but Bibi is struggling with the care of another three children, a 13 year old boy named Novati with bright intelligent eyes and broad smile, 11 year old Marta and 6 year old Margareti, all children of another mother, perhaps her daughter, who can’t feed them we are told.

We are greeted warmly as is the custom everywhere and very low stools, just inches off the ground, are brought from a pole and mud house that slants dangerously away from us. The slant is so profound that the door of the house no longer opens or closes and one has to enter sideways holding the frame to keep from falling into the house. Later I enter to see the most difficult interior to date. There are no beds, only two eroded mattresses on the uneven dirt floor. There is a jumble of bedding and stray clothes lying about. Cooking has been done inside the house with the traditional three flat stones. The fire has caused the partial burning of a dividing wall and Bibi is urged never to have a fire inside the house for fear of burning it down all together. A fire took the lives of two children in a village near Kilema just yesterday. Light filters through the cracks in the rear mud wall and it is clear to see from inside that this house is in its final days.

Up the slope from Irene and Jessica’s house the neighbour has levelled a piece of property with lava rock and in their renovating zeal have allowed volumes of lava rock to cascaded down toward the mud house below, destabilizing it. The dump of lava rock collects half way up the side of Bibi’s hut. It seems a shocking disregard for the less fortunate neighbour and we resolves to contact the village leader to discuss what happened here and advocate on Bibi’s behalf for compensation if possible. Whatever the outcome, this woman is in need of a new house.

The family was left with food, clothing and a blanket at this home visit and everyone was pleased to see Bibi Margareta, Irene, Jessica and Novati at the HIV Center the following morning for Irene’s HIV followup. Some two days later all the children came again to Kilema for the Cacha orphan day. Again three days later Bibi came to the hospital for other needs, clothing and shoes. Home visits consistently seem to be an effective way to assess the home conditions of orphan children and also to motivate caregivers and children to come in for services and build bridges with the orphan program.

On November 27th the Cacha team visited the home again with a local contractor, Mr. Mkundi, in order to take measurements and discuss options for providing Margareta and her family safe and secure housing. Two mosquito nets, a new mattress and bedding were provided.

Simon

The CACHA team approach the Kilawe shamba calling “Hodi”, an announcement of our arrival which is followed by the customary welcome, “Karibu, karibu sana.” Simon’s elderly grandmother gives us a vigorous welcome, complete with an embrace, and guides us nearer to her pole and mud house, pulling out small stools and benches for seating. She is the caregiver of orphan grandsons, Simon (16 yrs) and Amadeus (12yrs) whose parents both died of AIDS in 2005. We discover Bibi and Babu are also caring for another abandoned child, Ireni, who knows only her first name and had taken on the family surnames when she came to live with them.

Both grandparents are old and fortunately the Bibi appears robust while Babu seems quiet and distracted. Their living quarters are divided between two pole and mud houses, one larger that the other. When the Cacha team enters the first dark interior it is to see a single bed and eroded mattress which sleeps Bibi, Ireni and Simon’s brother Amadeus. The single bed in the second smaller and dilapidated hut sleeps Babu and husky Simon, the tallest orphan in the program. Simon has written, humorously, above the front door, “I want fresh air.” Joining this hut is the goat stable.

Sitting to begin the assessment are our team, the grandparents and another daughter here from Dares salaam with five children, one markedly disabled. Simon and Amadeus are both in good health, they report, and we concur having seen both boys at the last two orphan days. Both boys were weighed and measured and seen by medical staff. They appeared physically well. Simon participated in the soccer games on these days but was also seen to hang back from the group, perhaps feeling too old to be there or somewhat shy, perhaps discontented. The counsellor present on this home visit was reminded that a fellow of Simon’s age does need testing to confirm his HIV status and counselling to remain negative. Grandparents gave permission for testing to occur at the next orphan day.

Sadly we hear that both Simon and Amadeus have been sent home from school this week because secondary school fees have not been paid and there is no money. Looking around the shamba, one wonders what opportunities will be available to Simon and his brother without school. Most of the family income comes from bananas grown on their small plot. Cacha’s aim is to encourage education, mentoring and vocational training, so the boys have been given secondary school funding for the new school year starting January 2008. School shoes were provided to Simon who was sent home from school because he didn’t have proper ones.

On November 21 the family was provided with two new mattresses and two mosquito nets, a step toward having all orphans in the Cacha program sleeping under mosquito netting by February 1, 2008

Kilema Support Fund

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to the fund over the last few months and who together helped to bring it to a total of $7000. There are many ways and many good ways one can see to allocate money here and we have been fortunate to have time to look closely at some of the persistent needs. Below is a short list of common needs in a community where, for most people, money is scarce.

1. Secondary school sponsorship - between $80 and $250 per school year. Critical to keep children in school and for vulnerable children it is the only social safety net.

2. Primary school sponsorship - primary education is technically free but many ‘hidden costs’: uniform, food fees, cooks fees etc.

3. Income generating projects – individuals and groups are desperate to create an income source through a small enterprises for example:

· Goat husbandry

· Chickens

· Sewing projects

4. Provision of basic needs remains out of reach for many.

  • Mattress
  • Blankets
  • Shoes/ clothing
  • School supplies: pencil notebook
  • Mosquito nets- goal is to have all 110 orphans and family members under a net by end of February 1/08.
  • Roofing sheets ( corrugated metal)
  • Roof repair supplies –tar and filling material
  • Food- many families can not meet basic nutritional needs without help, especially critical for members on HIV treatment.
  • House repairs/rebuild

After a 2 month assessment period it has been a delight to tap into the Kilema Support Fund for recent purchases of :

mattresses (20) @ 23,000TSH each

mosquito nets (110) @ 3,600TSH each

blankets (20) @5,000TSH

sheets 20), @ 3,500TSH

and a pair of school shoes for Simon Kilawe who was asked to leave school because he had none. 1 pair @ 7,500TSH

The exchange rate is here for you mathematical pleasure. 1,200 TSH = $1.00 CAN

Wednesday was one of the most remarkable days on the job. I joked with my Tanzanian colleague, Denis, that he made more Bibis cry today than ever. The arrival of a mattress, bedding and mosquito nets reduced these stoic, resilient women quite frankly to tears. Some fought it but could not contain it and when one showed us the rustic bed she shares with her granddaughter she covered her eyes and it was only moments later we realized it was for upset, not embarrassment. It wasn’t our intention but we had the same effect on one after the other, after the other, as the supplies was delivered. Mattresses are such a common need, almost universal, yet for a family to part with 23,000 TSH for one, with all the other competing needs, food being primary, we see that people just get by without. Many years of getting by, two, three four, five in a bed with eroded foam in pieces or no cushioning on the wooden frame. While some of the responses today were emotional all were grateful and gracious. Thanks again to all our contributors.

Kwaheri

Stephanie