tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46429877095276918132024-03-18T21:41:29.708-07:00kilimanjarocallingFraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.comBlogger48125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-67705881846641749242012-01-30T23:57:00.000-08:002012-01-30T23:57:22.385-08:00Kilimanjaro Calls David Up !<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Kilimanjaro Climb</u></b></div>
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Well this mountain has been calling to me since we first
arrived in Tanzania
in early January.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From those first views
from the Moshi YMCA and it’s omnipresence at Kilema Hospital,
I have been looking and observing its various moods and routes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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The day arrived on Friday, January 20 when we were picked up
by the Marangu Hotel driver to be taken for our equipment outfitting and climb
briefing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was greatly relieve to hear
that I would have company on my climb as when I had checked in earlier in the
week, I was the only client !<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I now had
3 young Swiss hikers with me. (2x20 yr olds women and 1 22 yr old guy).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My three swiss companions were from a small
Dorf (village) about 45 minutes from Zurich.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Raphael (22 yrs old) and Monika (20 yrs
old)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were cousins and Sybil (20 yrs old)
was a long time friend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Raphael was a
carpenter and farmer and the young women worked with disable children.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They spoke Swiss-German so my hike would also
be a cultural language experience as I would be learning some Swiss German
expressions on this trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Needless to say, I was a bit concerned that
this old guy may have his work cut out for him to keep up with these “kids” when
we reached the trailhead. </div>
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I outfitted myself with some final equipment items and had
my gear “inspected” by the equipment manager.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A somewhat earnest Dora (initial impression is that she had a bit of the
Equipment Nazi in her|) had a look at my sleeping bag and other cold weather
clothing carefully to ensure that I would not suffer from the affects of the colder
weather as we ascended to the higher camps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I assured her that both my sleeping bags and other cold weather
equipment and withstood the extremes of West Coast mountain conditions but she
was unperturbed and pointed to a few missing items that she felt I should have
in my backpack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She helped me pick out
a balaclava and some warmer long underwear/gloves, which would prove to be
great suggestions as we moved further up the mountain.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoIBUIehPnkEW1TzlkQ-cwWBpwhM96IxbP_jgoMk7xxsITezDM7zCuD84p47-Kqn9qE6PCWxBCP-o8-s0VATRhJiQwnkLM-2zUnbl-5sRxn41ZFEYltpJMdIeem9LUwPJnkXIrOhRNM62/s1600/1-P1020789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoIBUIehPnkEW1TzlkQ-cwWBpwhM96IxbP_jgoMk7xxsITezDM7zCuD84p47-Kqn9qE6PCWxBCP-o8-s0VATRhJiQwnkLM-2zUnbl-5sRxn41ZFEYltpJMdIeem9LUwPJnkXIrOhRNM62/s320/1-P1020789.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>Dora checks out my gear to see if it will pass.</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4DMFgN2B_H6zglo3ixh4wl9g3zbc0MdR7M-z4IZsDn5IStzwVMauFsZ76y-MnmrHS94Ups9kPuT-AeSwQn0G6_mbooJrttKeGe2PJmu_MnjbrjTr4tby77pXx73XLVhsQkEA5Am1arR3r/s1600/1-P1020805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4DMFgN2B_H6zglo3ixh4wl9g3zbc0MdR7M-z4IZsDn5IStzwVMauFsZ76y-MnmrHS94Ups9kPuT-AeSwQn0G6_mbooJrttKeGe2PJmu_MnjbrjTr4tby77pXx73XLVhsQkEA5Am1arR3r/s320/1-P1020805.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Seamus gives the Swiss Group the low down.</b></td></tr>
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We had a great briefing from one of the family members that
owns the hotel. Seamus provided us with great insights from someone that has
climbed the mountain many times and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>he
emphasized a motto that would be a refrain echoed throughout the trip – pole
pole (slowly slowly), drink lots of water and eat as much as you can force down
at each sitting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Afterwards, we went to
meet our support crew of guides, cooks and porters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They totalled 13 and I must admit that I felt
as though I was heading out on major Himalayan expedition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We left our Kilema support crew behind as we
headed out on the road to our trailhead with the the climbing group and support
team.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we had chosen the Rongai
route, it required us to head around to the Kenyan side of the mountain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a 1.5 hour drive, we arrived at the
trailhead to our first camp, Simba Camp.</div>
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It was a nice and relaxed 3 hour hike which gave us time to
get know each other and get familiar with the pace of the group.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We quickly noticed that both the cook and
porters moved at a significant faster pace than the guides and hikers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This would allow them to get out ahead of
their clients so that both their accommodation and food would be under
preparation well before we arrived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With
being accustomed to both packing food and shelter and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>setting up and breaking camp when I go in the
outdoors in Canada, this was a guilty pleasure that I could get used to !</div>
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After a our leisurely hike through a lower forest, we found
ourselves at our first camp, Simba.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
were introduced to our first full course meal on the trail, complete with a
soup appetizer, main course and dessert !<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We realized that we would not go hungry on this trip !<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guide gave us our nightly briefing on
the next day and had us prepare for a slightly longer hike on the next day. </div>
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We started our hike towards Kikelelwa the next morning at
8:30am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this point, the terrain
become slightly steeper and the forest canopy disappeared and was replaced by
low bushes and rockier and more exposed terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pace and distance on this leg of the trip
gave us a good test and was well paced by our intrepid pace setter, Ernest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An interesting character with quiet and
determined demeanor and physically strong like a bull.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are quite familiar with the pace
attributed to Swiss Guides whereby the stride does not change whether the guide
is ascending, descending or on flat terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ernest carried this motto to Tanzanian and established his own Tanzanian
guide pace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quite remarkable as he did
not walk particularly fast but was the hallmark of consistency under tougher
conditions (as we would learn later in the trip).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He managed to keep this pace while carrying
multiple items in a backpack, over his shoulder and on his head !</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We arrived at
Kikelelwa later in the afternoon and as before, camp was setup and cooking in
progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this point, the sister peak of Kilimanjaro, Mwenzi, was beginning to
loom large in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A spectacular
peak, which although not as high as Mt.Kilimanjaro,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>presents a much greater climbing challenge
than it’s higher sibling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoyed
another great meal, and our cook, Nico, put together the first Lasgna (&
probably last) dinner above 3000 metres that I have ever had.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of the cooking magic that the crew worked up for us on the mountain !</td></tr>
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As we approached this campsite, we had noticed a plume of
smoke that had started back close to our first camp (Simba).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guides had indicated that it was likely
started accidently by honey farmers that light fires to smoke out the bees when
the want to harvest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the high
winds blowing across the slopes this bush fire had spread quite dramatically
and we were concerned that it may blow up the hillside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guiding team seemed quite calm when we
approached them with our concern and merely said – “Hakuna Matata”” (loose
translation – it is ok, take it easy).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sure enough, the smoke trail and fire glow were gone when we awoke the
next morning.</div>
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The next day dawned clear again, and after yet another great
breakfast, we proceeded onto the Tarn Camp at Mawenzi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This camp would be at the foot of Mawenzi
and provide a very close-up view of this peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As we proceeded towards Mawenzi, the terrain became increasingly more
like a desert and low scrub brush was replaced rock and rubble and with any
vegetation centred oasis type conditions (small creeks, etc). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6GnzKUL0yZ_vsaIvwYE-SDSSeO6wlAZa_uvPEyI2w7UxntG7aYntozFsGg4UDqWDSg1x7L2SSHIVmMMY-Nh2FGX14P-s1DCW7o_YgBub9fVii7XabTtD9MYXX5NXKmHEiCVi_H2SkDan/s1600/1-IMG_1549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6GnzKUL0yZ_vsaIvwYE-SDSSeO6wlAZa_uvPEyI2w7UxntG7aYntozFsGg4UDqWDSg1x7L2SSHIVmMMY-Nh2FGX14P-s1DCW7o_YgBub9fVii7XabTtD9MYXX5NXKmHEiCVi_H2SkDan/s320/1-IMG_1549.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mawenzi Camp(our tent in front)</b></td></tr>
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Prior to dinner, our guides took us up above the camp to get
a closer view of the Mawenzi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we reached
the top of the ridge, our expedition’s goal was revealed to us in greater
detail than we had seen prior to this point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At our left we could see the craggy spires of Mawenzi and at our right
the open slopes of Kilimanjaro with the approach to Gillman’s Point clearly
visible above Kibo Hut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With our final
destination in sight, sleep that night was going to prove a little more
difficult.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just below Mawenzi - only one more day to the summit !</td></tr>
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After a fitful sleep likely due to nerves and the altitude,
we set off across the great divide between Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This moonscape terrain between the two peaks
is easy walking but buffeted by strong winds and that every present dust and
dirt that is part of this section of the climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The travel time<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was estimated
between 3-5 hours and our guides were even more emphatic on our pacing – pole
pole – as we were to gain only 200-300 metres but this was technically summit
day for us as we would setting off for the peak at midnight on this day so they
were very keen to keep our energy levels up !<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>So what does this writer go off and do ?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Feeling good and wanting to test myself, I
strode off at a slightly faster pole pole pace !<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I arrived ahead of most of the group and
helped with some of the camp setup in very high winds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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After a light lunch, we explored the surrounding carmp area
including Kibo Hut and had a small walk up the route to Gillman’s point that we
would climbing later that evening.</div>
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There was nervousness in the group with the realization that
we would be making the final ascent up to the peak in just a few hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We prepared the contents of our summit backpack prior to
going to bed and retired at 6:00pm.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Nymon brings in the pre-summit carbo loading pasta meal</b></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Summit</u></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u> Night</u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After dinner, the team retired to bed to try and get some
sleep prior to our 11:00pm wake-up call.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The wind had calmed down so we were hopeful that we could get some sleep
before starting our midnight ascent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Unfortunately, a combination of nerves, altitude and an ever increasing
wind conspired to keep me awake until the call came to get up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a result, I was the first one in the cook
tent having my tea and biscuits as the rest of the team came in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this point, the wind was very strong and
Dora’s warning’s of the cold came back to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I had dressed with just enough layers to be a little cold and was
anxious to get going once we had been assembled by the guides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A number of groups had already set out and
we could see their groupings of headlamps ahead of us as we started on our
ascent.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ernest led the way with his usual steady and consistent
pacing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To resist the urge to go to
fast, I fell in behind my Swiss friends and we kept a very consistent pace as
we proceeded up the first section.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
wind, darkness and cold combined to make it a very eerie and surreal atmosphere
for climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We began to catch up with
some of the other groups as we proceeded up the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we passed each other, there was a
quiet<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>acknowledgement of the task at
hand and best wishes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After each hour,
we would ask the guides on our progress as we really thought that we would be
come under the expected 5 hours to Gillman Point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alas, we were always told that we were still
on track for the 5 hour timeframe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At
around the last hour of the ascent, the girls were beginning to feel the
altitude and we resting more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Raphi and
I both felt it as well but appeared to have a little more energy<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After acknowledging to Ernest that we wanted
to get to Uhuru Peak for sunrise, he quickly stepped in and led us to Gillman’s
Point as fast a possible and left the girls with Elias and Stephan.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At this point, we were feeling fine and moved onto Gillman’s
Point which we made within a 10-15 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The altitude and lack of sleep was beginning to hit me at Gillmans and
when Ernest indicated that we need to hurry to reach Uhuru by sunrise, I was
not sure I was able.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt that I could
sleep standing up but once Ernest and Raphael started out, there was no way that
I was going to be left behind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We set
out on the rim trail at a good pace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was well marked and worn but it traversed a few snow slopes that required some
careful walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we proceeded down
the trail, I needed quick breaks to keep myself energized and as we approached
the high trail, I could see the sky begin to glow red and I knew that it would
be close.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I came up on the ridge,
the trail was filled with other climbers and they helped drag me along to the
summit in time to see the sun begin to rise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ernest, Raphael and I gathered together for some summit photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To our surprise, just after the sun had
begun to rise, the girls and remaining guides (Elias, and Stephen)
arrived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had a great reunion on the
peak with the group and took a photo of us all on the summit to celebrate our group achievement.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXTAskrtJXFkrQCZ9J1dqeOfAsz0R8uVL0EQEU59Vob9ca5OIR382sGZOnKWLUCcG1norBVwASaVpg2mu64c9_GJwkMCZuMOyTJ99sHuVpc6WszfQXq5J5vcU1hZokZvJO60CcGwYKBV2/s1600/1-IMG_1629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXTAskrtJXFkrQCZ9J1dqeOfAsz0R8uVL0EQEU59Vob9ca5OIR382sGZOnKWLUCcG1norBVwASaVpg2mu64c9_GJwkMCZuMOyTJ99sHuVpc6WszfQXq5J5vcU1hZokZvJO60CcGwYKBV2/s320/1-IMG_1629.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sunrise summit at Uhuru with Ernest</b></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRouFCO-rOE-sp-SALAjOMk6zIyI328uo0TDDOPQBf7HakYnwbdGwxiCbb1NeQQapFMeMPfwMVHKyJLd4iYNdjkymxbVKMQPdx4gMdra5a4MLJu1JKH9QTlBHQUBqd_r6PGLsOgezOMw0/s1600/1-IMG_1673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRouFCO-rOE-sp-SALAjOMk6zIyI328uo0TDDOPQBf7HakYnwbdGwxiCbb1NeQQapFMeMPfwMVHKyJLd4iYNdjkymxbVKMQPdx4gMdra5a4MLJu1JKH9QTlBHQUBqd_r6PGLsOgezOMw0/s320/1-IMG_1673.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crater Rim Trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6RQCouGdJyCHV4bvMEXjSQ4ru03WjUO3PgWwVYuo2uYixtc_1r_UvMu7Sxz4YNXY4hzjEays3yEgp3jcq9ppNIO3SyNa_XcEsvhQwhHixXq3bi5Bb0u0yaUDDddi2ftXJ2i8q0ZhAGerl/s1600/1-IMG_1677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6RQCouGdJyCHV4bvMEXjSQ4ru03WjUO3PgWwVYuo2uYixtc_1r_UvMu7Sxz4YNXY4hzjEays3yEgp3jcq9ppNIO3SyNa_XcEsvhQwhHixXq3bi5Bb0u0yaUDDddi2ftXJ2i8q0ZhAGerl/s320/1-IMG_1677.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raphael "scree laufen" down the slope to Kibo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSTR1VFsxVhJPJcqEQt0IYBhUecP4HycttWX3w0x2yY16qlklJNRCdIZQ5kHIjSXXaM8T_3cXEjhB6272seDEvo6nIB8kggXfb6Umw5pAkohyphenhyphenqIsjavhmLfRKccmzC9dIX3ZKEqx1wLP5/s1600/1-IMG_1643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSTR1VFsxVhJPJcqEQt0IYBhUecP4HycttWX3w0x2yY16qlklJNRCdIZQ5kHIjSXXaM8T_3cXEjhB6272seDEvo6nIB8kggXfb6Umw5pAkohyphenhyphenqIsjavhmLfRKccmzC9dIX3ZKEqx1wLP5/s320/1-IMG_1643.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The entire group – David,
guides Stephen, Elias, and Ernest (seated) Sybil, Monika and Raphael (seated)
on the Top of Africa</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">We came away from the summit exhilarated and proceeded back
along the rim trail.<span> </span>We had great views
of the upper glaciers (over 50 metres high), crater and surrounding peaks (Mt. Mehru,
etc).<span> </span>The group descended along the
trail to Gillman’s and as soon as the slope permitted, we engaged in some
“scree skiing” (or scree laufen auf deutsche).<span>
</span>Despite weary and sleepy bodies, we were able manage a few turns in our
descent to Kibo Hut,</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">After our return to Kibo, we were allowed a few hours rest,
prior to packing up and heading down towards Horombo camp on the Marangu route.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>The Descent – Kibo to
Horombo and back to Marangu Hotel</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The descent would take us down a different route than our
ascent.<span> </span>We had ascended on the drier
side (Kenyan side) and we would descend on the Tanzanian side down the popular
Marangu route.<span> </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">We had one last camp at Horombo Camp prior to finishing the
descent at Marangu gate.<span> </span>It was 3-4 hour
descent from Kibo to Horombo, and we could feel the affect altitude begin to
fall away as we descended.<span> </span>We camped
next to the hut facilities at the Horombo camp and enjoyed a few more amenities
in comparison to Kibo although the price tag on the Kilimanjaro beer
discouraged any pre-mature celebrations.<span>
</span>All of us caught up on some much needed sleep from our deprivation of
the last couple of days.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">In the morning, we had dress rehearsal for our celebration
in the afternoon, as we saw a few groups celebrating their climb by gathering
in a circle and singing the traditional Kilimanjaro song</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Out final leg of the descent saw the trail move through
scrub brush to lush forest.<span> </span>The
following sequence of photos show some of the diversity in the vegetation as we
made our descent.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqrBg5YNUQoCJbuN6C1RLlulsi_qc8DZbE3hyN5-5fB7XVomHxHB3892K31W5Xco1uecRGf8ys0jfyuzjkWHUeXEBCY3LC2IiInrT1pGPiSqDPyIXBZ_zTu7JeZWC3X5oF2Ou_2CKHpMmZ/s1600/1-IMG_1721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqrBg5YNUQoCJbuN6C1RLlulsi_qc8DZbE3hyN5-5fB7XVomHxHB3892K31W5Xco1uecRGf8ys0jfyuzjkWHUeXEBCY3LC2IiInrT1pGPiSqDPyIXBZ_zTu7JeZWC3X5oF2Ou_2CKHpMmZ/s320/1-IMG_1721.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_h0Ymu0dqCO9wNrHOQftNgTVWeyLuI3atbOJXify6pD3Pl3-wsrOzzokeq26pQErFCaSmgGTyWKbKhoIUirEnNvFFfJPah7FOGQdNzhmm04J9MED_n1-xRlU4J_hN5_X32VAsGli8scBL/s1600/1-IMG_1790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_h0Ymu0dqCO9wNrHOQftNgTVWeyLuI3atbOJXify6pD3Pl3-wsrOzzokeq26pQErFCaSmgGTyWKbKhoIUirEnNvFFfJPah7FOGQdNzhmm04J9MED_n1-xRlU4J_hN5_X32VAsGli8scBL/s320/1-IMG_1790.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Marangu Hotel</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The weary porters, guides, cooks and climbers returned to Marangu hotel for a welcome shower and cleanup. We had a wonderful post-climb party with the group where we celebrated and treated to a stirring rendition of the Kilimanjaro Song by the group and each of us received our official certificates.</span></div>
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</div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-33265633635556223202012-01-27T03:43:00.000-08:002012-01-27T03:43:19.571-08:00Binti Blog #2: Tanzania vs. Canada<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Having been in Tanzania for three weeks, we’ve come to realise
many differences between here and Canada.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a couple of similarities, but the differences
are much more numerous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We love it both
here and in Canada
but there are things that could be better about each country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The following points are the biggest
differences between Tanzania
and Canada
that we’ve seen.</div>
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In our opinion the people here
dress much more uniquely than in Canada.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The men dress more like westerners but the
women are the ones with the very striking clothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s a huge variety of Kitenges and Kangas
which are two different types of big beautifully patterned fabric that women
wrap around themselves in many different ways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A Kanga is a cheaper, plainer fabric that they use to travel in and to
use as a simple wrap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A Kitenge on the
other hand, is a more expensive fabric that is multicoloured, has more original
patterns and is what they make clothes out of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Many women also use it to wrap around themselves as a skirt or dress. The
things they can do with an unstructured piece of cloth are amazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the things we like about the clothing
here is that you can go out, choose a Kitenge that you like, and have a
specially tailored outfit made the way you want it that no one else can have.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You don’t often see people showing a lot of
skin here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People here usually wear
clothes that cover their shoulders and knees because a large number of
Tanzanians are Muslims. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>From our
experience, transportation here is unpredictable, uncomfortable and most of the
time unorganised. The main form of transportation that we’ve used is called
dalla dallas
that are minivan type things used in the more rural areas. They are the African
equivalent of buses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can normally
count on them crammed with way over 25 people <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>when there are actually only 20 seats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best dalla dalla to get onto is one with
a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>people inside because you know it’s
leaving soon, but you get the luxury of having a seat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you ever have to stand in a dalla dalla,
you’re squished in between sweaty bodies; reaching over heads to find a hand
hold so you won’t fall over and completely crouched over so you don’t hit the
ceiling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it’s really not that bad and
you get used to it after awhile. It becomes rather enjoyable watching the
commotion of the bus and the scenery passes you by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the end of the ride you often can’t find
your own feet, but you’ll have met a new person and will have a new story to
share.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In Canada,
education is taken for granted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s
just a part of your life and for the most part you don’t have to go through
much trouble to get it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Tanzania, along
with many other countries in the world, it’s a completely different story. .<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An education here is one of the most valuable
things you can have.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With an education
comes a good job hopefully, a better source of income and a more comfortable
way of life. The main reason we come here is to support kids and orphans with
families that don’t have enough money to pay for tuition. Only a small portion
of kids here have the luxury of going to school. It starts with primary school
where there’s no real tuition but you have to pay for lunch, school supplies
and uniforms which can be a lot for many families. After seven years of Primary,
Secondary comes along with tuition ranging from 100,000 to over 1,000,000
shillings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How is it expected that 89%
of the population that lives on 2$ a day will pay that much for their children
to go to school? We found that the kids are so much more eager to go to school
and learn here, than in Canada.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They want to learn and do well in school
because they know if they don’t their life will be more difficult. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After seeing the reality of how important
education is, we think that we’ll go back to school a bit more grateful.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
differences between Tanzania
and Canada
are vast, but over all people are just people and like everyone else around the
world; they just want a better life for themselves for themselves and their
kids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hope that in the near future,
the government will take control of the situation and will pay for school so
every child will have an opportunity to get an education.</div>
</div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-5196179562734740332012-01-22T03:57:00.000-08:002012-01-22T03:57:07.240-08:00The Bintis<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After Eva’s last trip to Africa
in 2009 I wondered what impressions, memories and comfort level she’d
experience this trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As it turns out
our daughters or bintis have been intrepid and swiftly well adjusted to cultural norms here
regarding dress and behaviour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both are
more likely to be found in African print skirts and T-shirts, something neither
David or I ever thought we would see. “ Shikamoo”, the greeting of respect to
elders meaning I put myself under your feet, is being used comfortably now and
the stream of locals we pass on our way are so pleased to know the bintis are well
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Surprisingly the girls have been eager to wander on their
own within a safe radius.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaving David,
Mary and me in a Lasso village bar with sodas, Serengeties and HBC Thaddeus
Mzaki, the girls walked down the mountain side, crossed a river flowing
from<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kilimanjaro and climbed up the
other side of the valley, passing through Mkyashi on the way back to Kilema.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We watched them amble off on the red clay
framed by grasses and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>banana palms<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with amazing nonchalance, feeling at home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On
market day they wandered away from us in the busy ‘sekoni’ or market,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>into throngs of kitenge wrapped women, mounds
of tomatoes, salt, dried tilapia fish from Lake Victoria, tea, soda bottles
filled with vegetable oil, others filled with kerosene. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later when
we met them, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Caroline’s arms were
filled with mangos and corn which they later planned to grill over coals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we stayed backed at sekoni they
sauntered off to Kilema hospital, weaving past a cross-section of Tanzanian
life; the elegant, the aged, the hard at work, the destitute, the colourfully
wrapped, the contemporary, the mentally ill, the educated, the intoxicated and
the young. The girls held their own quite well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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While reviewing sponsored students at Kirefure primary school,
the bintis offered an impromptu geography lesson and organized teams for a quick
game of soccer. They have sat in on school meetings and student reviews with
patience and interest. They have been riding dalla dalla’s without anxiety,
shoulder to shoulder, knee to knee, hip to hip with villagers. They have been
teaching computer to HBC Augustine Shayo, who has requested computer training
from me for four years and has finally realized a dream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The girls recently worked the Pamoja Tunaweza
medical caravan with friend Sidonie, and learned how to use a electronic b/p
cuff and screen for high blood pressures! And high some were! At the Kilema OVC
program they have carried food sacks, measured out beans for<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>distribution, fitted shirts, offered up school
supplies and support.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few days ago
Caroline and Eva<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>made out bank deposit
slips and counted shillings (eliminating the most soiled and flimsy) for student tuition payments at the CRDB bank in
Marangu and reflected on the generosity of fellow students at Central Middle School
who provided money to send<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two students to
Darajani Secondary School, Daniel and Lucina. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Many thanks to Central students!</span></div>
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No complaints about missed meals, no snacks, cold showers,bug bites,
pit toilets, long walks, dust, heat, bugs or geckos…..well I could be wrong
about geckos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite all the surrounding
strangeness and physical discomfort when asked what the greatest challenge is
Caroline says, “the language, trying to understand what people are saying and
sometimes the staring.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eva’s incisive
answer, “Nothing really...... maybe the bugs.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> In all, the bintis have been doing a great job over here and we are
exceedingly proud of them. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-53843522392460527802012-01-19T03:29:00.000-08:002012-01-19T03:36:26.160-08:00Augustine Shayo learns about computers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I was introduced to Augustine by Stephanie on the 2nd day of our stay at Kilema hospital. Augustine is an important cog in the OVC machinery for Stephanie and the team. He is a HBC (Home Based Care) volunteer who lives just below Kilema hospital in Mullo village which is a 40 minute walk through a beautiful valley below Kisuluni Primary and Secondary school. Augustine is an important ":man on the ground" for Stephanie when when she arrives in Kilema as he is integral in her work to track down sponsored students and an important liaison and translator when she performs home visits. Much of the OVC work would more difficult if not for Augustine's work in helping the team.<br />
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Augustine has had a long-term interest in learning more about computers and when David arrived with 2 laptops, he jumped at the chance to learn more about how computers work. David and the girls (Eva and Caroline) sat with Augustine for many hours showing him how to use e-mail, document programs, internet browsers and other tools. He was a very attentive student and learned a lot in the days that we were together.<br />
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He has now joined the world of the e-mail and can be reached at <i><b>augustineshayo@gmail.com.</b></i> He currently does not have a computer but will be accessing e-mail by visiting a local Vocational school.<br />
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As I am teaching Augustine about computers, this blog is also a teaching tool for him and he is contributing to this blog below in Swahili.<br />
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For those of you that would like to translate, you can use Google Translate (www.google.com/translate) to find out what he has written below:<br />
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From the keyboard of Augustine Shayo:<br />
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<b><i>Thank for being together David Marry and Stephanie I will work both for home visit until you leave. We have great number watoto yatima kwa mfano Mandaka wameongezeka na kufikia mia na tano mwishoni mwa mwaka 2011 pia kwa wale walioshinda wamekosa nafasi ya kuendelea na masomo kutokana na ukosefu wa Ada </i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The student is focused on his next lesson.</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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David and Augustine - January-2012<br />
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<br /></div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-40980382646271551852012-01-18T23:46:00.000-08:002012-01-18T23:49:24.155-08:00Caroline and Eva:Bloggy blogs<p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"> These past few weeks have been an amazing experience. So far everything has gone smoothly and we've learned so much already. Tanzania has so many great <span lang="en-US">components</span>; one of our favourite things is the friendly atmosphere. <span lang="en-US">The</span> people here are always smiling and kind wherever we go locals come, shake our hands and welcome us to their country by saying '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">karibu</span>' which is <span lang="en-US">Swahili</span> for 'welcome'. We have always wanted to come to Tanzania together and its surreal that that it's actually happening and going so well!</p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"><br /></p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in"><span style="font-weight: medium"> We started out with an incredible safari to two of Tanzania's most well known and highly recommended wildlife parks. The first wildlife park we went to was <span lang="en-US">called</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Tarangire</span> National park, where we stayed at our favourite tented lodge. The best part is that it has a panorama view of the park and of animals splashing below in the river. Next we went to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Ngorongoro</span> Crater where we saw a larger number of animals. Seeing such exotic animals living alongside each other in their natural habitats was <span lang="en-US">unbelievable. </span></span> </p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium" lang="en-US"><br /></p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"> Since we've been in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Kilema</span> I've noticed that it continues to improve and the people are doing very well. Our first full day in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Kilema</span> was the distribution day. Distribution day is when the O.V.C. ( Orphaned and Vulnerable Children) kids come to get supplies for the new school year. When we got there fairly early that morning, there were already many kids lined up to get their supplies. We had them wait while we got everything set up, and by the time we were ready to let them in we had over 100 kids but not all were registered in the program to get the supplies. There was a steady flow of kids who came in to get black school shoes, socks, skirts or shorts, shirts, sweaters, notebooks, pens, pencils and shoe polish. It felt great to be able to help the kids out. This was the first <span lang="en-US">distribution</span> day. We had another one where instead of giving out school supplies we have out beans, flour, ground up corn, oil and soap.</p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"><br /></p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in"><span style="font-weight: medium"> A couple of days ago, we joined in on a Medical Caravan at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Pamoja</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Tunaweza</span>. A Medical Caravan is when doctors from all around North America go to neighbouring villages around the district of Kilimanjaro, set up clinics and give free medical attention. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Pamoja</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Tunaweza</span> is a project affiliated with an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">NGO</span>(<span lang="en-US">non-government</span> organisation) called <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">CACHA</span> that specializes in <span lang="en-US">women's</span> health care, but also has a free clinic in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Moshi</span> for children and men as well. </span> </p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium">Here is <span lang="en-US">a summary of </span>how our day went. We had to wake up rather early (about 6:30) to start the day, then got on a bus with a bunch of other volunteers and doctors to go to the small village outside of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Moshi</span>. The clinic that was already there was very small but well maintained, and had ample staff and supplies. Our friends Hannah and Sid were part of our team working triage. Triage is where registration, and blood pressure and weight are measured. We were assigned to blood pressure and weight. It was interesting how many people had problems with their blood pressure yet weighed so little. We had two rather alarming situations. The first was when we took the blood pressure of a middle aged man, and it was almost 200/110 which is <span lang="en-US">abnormally</span> high. The next one was a teenage girl who was sitting there perfectly normal and had a pulse of 160. That just shows how people are living with such extreme conditions, without even knowing it.</p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"><br /></p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"> From the moment we got off the plane to exploring the rural villages to helping in every way we can, this trip has been unique and <span lang="en-US">incredible.</span> We're so happy that so far we've been able to have many unforgettable experiences and hopefully many more to come. </p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium"><br /></p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; font-weight: medium">- Caroline + Eva (:</p><p style="margin-top: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in"><br /></p>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-8024719293282631212012-01-18T09:56:00.000-08:002012-01-18T09:59:59.907-08:00WHAT AN INITIATION – UNRIVALLED!What a revelation our experience here in Tanzania is proving to be, and especially living amongst the community even for these two weeks here in Kilema, following our memorable safari, before I'm off for a few days to Zanzibar! So different from my remarkable years of work experience across a myriad of countries with a UK international aid agency! And why is this? Living within the community and with Steph as such a known and loved itinerant personality here, we're having such privileged access to so much, not least the work that is being done here thru' her KSF school support programme. This has included visiting schools and especially meeting families in their homes, of whom one of their children is a KSF beneficiary. In this way it's possible to get this brief immersion into what are the issues that face many families here – just yesterday we met a young girl living very basically with her grandmother (as so many children do) alongside two block houses built by her uncles, both of whom together with her parents have died. This way you come close to the realities of many for whom an entire generation has been lost so prematurely. But nevertheless the commitment is impressive in particular of the many grandmothers (bibis) to the education of their grandchildren. And no less so is the eagerness of children to secure an education as their route away from poverty to a different life experience from their predecessors.<br /><br />And thru'out our days here in Kilema, we are out walking along the tracks & roads. What better way to meet people - all this amidst constant meeting and greeting with everyone we encounter! How often are we told Karibu Tanzania, Welcome to Tanzania, Karibuni home , Welcome home! All this is so heart felt, it's amazing to experience so constantly! The ritual of greeting exchanges in Swahili is very important – and I'm slowly feeling more familiar with the many permutations! And some of the learning of Swahili is made easier with karoti, kebechi, basi, kioski, teksi, petroli, baisikeli, texti being examples of commonly recognisable words to even the most uninitiated. Swahili is rooted in the Bantu language, then historically absorbing Arabic, some Portuguese and as here many English adaptations.<br /><br />And so to the ubiquitous topic of local transport!! We're gaining ever more experience of using the dalla dallas (the local minibuses) that are filled & more to the gills with people seated, standing, hanging out of the windows. And when we were on one of the larger intercity buses from Moshi to Arusha, there was luggage and laden boxes endlessly stowed on the roof! Watching the dalla dallas while walking can be hair raising in itself as they can tilt at crazy angles as they negotiate the dirt roads! Another element of the travel experience here is just how random it can be! Today was such an example - we set out on foot for a couple of schools c.5 kms away, but soon after starting we hitched a lift with a Professor of Parasitology at the nearby medical centre who took us right to the door of the schools, his own house being metres away! Then on our return after a short distance we found a dalla dalla waiting which as soon as we boarded set off! <br />Our daily experiences are so varied, it's hard to know what to narrate! Here at the office, working with an older community member Augustine who is one of Steph's Home Based Care support team members for her programme, is one particularly delightful & moving example. For years he has wanted to learn basic computer skills, and it's been such a thrill for him – and for us – to enable this to happen with David as computer guru supporting him, but also Eva & Caroline, our 14 & 13 year olds! He now has a gmail account and this can open his world up & not least possibly allow him to keep contact with Steph between her visits. <br /><br />So immersed are we in life here in Kilema, it's hard to realise we've only been here a week following our memorable safari. Despite having done two previously in southern Africa years back, this one in Tanzania outstripped them both in duration, scale, location and sheer quantity of animals. Indeed as Steph promised this was truly remarkable - nestling as it does in the Rift Valley such a sight in itself, not to mention then looking down from the Ngorogoro Crater rim. On arrival in Tanzania, my heart had soared when I first saw again the acacia trees with their distinctive flat tops and triangular shape. To be witnessing such density of breeds, we counted about 40 animal species (not least its 3K elephants) including many of its renowned bird population in Tarangire, and then another 30 almost exclusively animal species in Ngorogoro, and there in such quantities. Seeing the migrating wildebeest was a memorable sight! How often could one presume to have the chance of watching the birth of a Thompson's gazelle, and the heart stopping moments as the tentative calf made endless attempts before succeeding in standing! And all the while being so aware of all the hyenas we'd seen in the vicinity so recently – and both mother & baby looking so defenceless. Being up before sunrise on both days certainly paid off – the quantities visible were large indeed.<br /><br />The other element of this area of Tanzania is its dense & verdant vegetation. On arrival at Kilema we scaled Nganga hill overlooking the hospital complex, from where it's almost impossible to believe that so many people live below (and plan to do a dawn raid on it tomorrow)! And as we walk the roads & tracks, that density is clear to see. Bananas are prolific here – all tasting different from the next! Having been so impressed by the centuries old Moorish system of irrigation in Andalucia in southern Spain, it's fascinating to realise that the ancient furrow system of irrigation here around Kilema is almost identical, allowing the many shambas (farms) in rotation to receive regular irrigation – tho' sadly their mutual family based system of maintenance is not as successful as it used to be prior to colonial intervention!<br /><br />And so to close despite much more I could relate! Maybe this will give some further flavours of what visiting Kilema can give you!?<br /><br />Mary Todd - Bristol, EnglandFraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-9775529830381654072012-01-09T21:10:00.000-08:002012-02-03T08:14:20.514-08:002012 Tulewasili Tanzania! We've arrived!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It has been the fullest of days since leaving Canada on December 30 for our latest visit to Tanzania and we are aware of how tardy this first announcement comes! Samehani!<br />
Mary Todd of Bristol, David Crossley and daughter Caroline are accompanying Eva and me to Kilema Hospital for a month of rural work and life in the Kilimanjaro foothills and after many days of movement we have finally arrived, by a cliff hugging dalla dalla, to peaceful Kilema. After settling into a completed visitor centre, rooms now named Serengeti, Arusha and Ngorogoro, the girls were quick to learn from Sr. Clarissa the workings of a kerosene lamp when the power predictably vanished as it does most evenings. We’ve have had a stream of greetings from our hosts and colleagues at the hospital, the refrain, “feel at home”, still ringing. Many are wide eyed to see Eva having grown into a young woman and they have paused to take in the stature of Caroline too. As always the welcome is warm and handshakes plenty and lingering. <br />
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Passing through Arusha a few days ago after safari (wow!), we met our first sponsored student who studies at Edmund Rice Secondary school. Weaving through an undulating dirt back road, brimming with industry and effort, open sewage, toddlers crawling and the occasional community water faucet, we finally arrived. What a pleasure to meet the headmaster and see this freshly renovated Catholic school and meet Lilian who looked smart in a red sweatered uniform. She took us on tour and described her life. She plays net ball for recreation, eats only ugali, beans and rice and no meat and would like to become a teacher at a higher level. With surprising confidence she corrected the headmaster’s error regarding her recent marks, which are good. She is 10th out of 34 students in her class. We look forward to many more student interviews and I’m sure there will be much news of progress.<br />
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Yesterday the annual distribution of school supplies and uniforms to the children served by the Kilema Orphan and Vulnerable Children Program allowed us to work along side Sunday and Ireni and to connect with grandmothers and children, seeing first hand where a sizeable portion of the OVC budget goes every year. Eva and Caroline learned how to fit a waist by holding the waist band around a child’s neck and they saw secondary children seize upon a bin of white shirts, some donated by Glen Lyon Norfolk and St. Andrew’s schools in Victoria. The book bags donated by Triple Shot and the Shaw sisters were snapped up and we locked the remainder for KSF Tuition Project students in the days to come. David and Mary helped fit shoes and navigate children from shoe to notebook station and generally relished this early contact with local village grandmothers and children. Our thanks for all the donated items we’ve begun to distribute<br />
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Mount Kilimanjaro has been obscured by thick cloud and David has been looking upward, perhaps praying for clear summiting later this month. Views were still spectacular from Ngangu Hill yesterday where we lingered in the long grass watching the light fall into long shadows. The thick coat of vegetation that shelters and sustains thousands of people living beneath is looking thicker with the heavy ‘short rains’ and with so much moisture I notice more mosquito. The girls have been culling as many as possible and we hear the happy slapping of flip flops on the wall into the night. David’s coffee grinder goes off every morning followed by a bug bite counts. We are all happily settling into life here.<br />
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Of course our thanks to everyone who has supported the project. This year I have $10,000 Canadian available for students as well as shirts, bags, English dictionaries (three given out today alone to senior students), fleece blankets, pens pencils, soccer balls. We have been sustained by interest and all manner of generosity and care. Thank you Rob and Priya for a spectacular New Years Eve dinner in Amsterdam, amidst the crackle of fireworks. Kilema will miss you this year. Tutaonana.</div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-37933217496322329122011-10-03T10:00:00.000-07:002011-10-03T10:44:52.312-07:00Godfrey and Sasha: 4 Years Later<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHL-aY3FeXZJWyMF9Pj_Ie_X_BwfVD6_zSCamACtf2Zbwm5ArAKnliszXgTC4Dn3iUs9xeTCHlJKaQdB_isv1cBneye_-HczmYDfMc-9oXLHjV1J1P9oZRwaGVHuyEWL71Ek-NTKCT-pj2/s1600/P1010274.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHL-aY3FeXZJWyMF9Pj_Ie_X_BwfVD6_zSCamACtf2Zbwm5ArAKnliszXgTC4Dn3iUs9xeTCHlJKaQdB_isv1cBneye_-HczmYDfMc-9oXLHjV1J1P9oZRwaGVHuyEWL71Ek-NTKCT-pj2/s320/P1010274.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659321783837978242" border="0" /></a>John, Sasha and Godfrey<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxsLYDK3F-o8kRxw9xeQbMm35YuiX6gAesVQi-HZCCw3B4RjlmiNmsSBkKbzyr26ERXg54u-SQBjhDXpPUXiRaPrOeB_tP6zZFBr8ycmPmr72vYrxDYNX9TMjUfqgACri3HXTr02Xbu7l/s1600/P1010273.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxsLYDK3F-o8kRxw9xeQbMm35YuiX6gAesVQi-HZCCw3B4RjlmiNmsSBkKbzyr26ERXg54u-SQBjhDXpPUXiRaPrOeB_tP6zZFBr8ycmPmr72vYrxDYNX9TMjUfqgACri3HXTr02Xbu7l/s320/P1010273.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659321784460735122" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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{page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">Returning now to Kilema four years after our first arrival is to return to family and community.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">So much wonderful news to catch up on: new parents and grandparents amongst our colleagues here;<span style=""> </span>orphans blossoming into healthy adolescents and former AIDS patients continuing in good health.<span style=""> </span>But of course, accompanying this joy, the ongoing losses of life here: lab technician Ida newly widowed; AIDS and TB patients still dying too often and just today a beloved HIV clinic staff member sent off by hospital staff for a post mortem examination, feared dead from an abusive husband.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">But to the forefront tonight is an amazing friendship, a story still early in its evolution: the incredible connection of Sasha and Godfrey, a local boy.<span style=""> </span>Our early days here saw Godfrey often arriving at sunrise, calling “Shasha” outside the boys’ window and an immediate , wordless kinship arose and continued through our year, Godfrey showing an amazing appetite for connection and learning and Sasha thrilled to adventure in the area with him.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">Today, Godfrey’s proud father , John, arrives to take us to Godfrey’s boarding school: excelling and determined and a fortunate recipient of support for school fees, he has landed in an excellent school , where students achieve high marks on national exams and go on to prestigious universities.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">As we walk the red soil road , at the edge of breath-taking ravines, John asks Sasha what he will be when he grows up. “Pediatrician”, Sasha replies. “I want to help children.”<span style=""> </span>Amazing news to the father , never before the recipient of such an announcement.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">Olaleni school is a tightly run ship; we sign in and, due to mandatory Sunday afternoon study hall for all students, will only have several minutes with Godfrey.<span style=""> </span>We are treated to a surreal scene testifying to the vital importance of education in Tanzania and the determination to avoid corruption, as Form 4 exams (Grade 12) arrive in shrink – wrapped packages, accompanied by three machine gun toting guards!</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">Soon Godfrey rushes to us, radiant smiles are exchanged, fists bumped and an arm wrestle for old times sake is underway.<span style=""> </span>Godfrey triumphs.<span style=""> </span>“He’s a year and a half older than me!” Sasha smilingly protests.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">I mirror John’s earlier question to Sasha, asking Godfrey what course he wishes to pursue at university.<span style=""> </span>“Pediatrician.”<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p> </o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left">The swift answer makes me jump, then smile.<span style=""> </span>From wordless kinship to converging career goals, this friendship appears to have legs.<span style=""> </span>Stay tuned.</p> <br /><br /><br /><br /></m:defjc></m:rmargin></m:lmargin></m:dispdef></m:smallfrac>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-22751529954337832542011-10-03T09:45:00.000-07:002011-10-03T09:59:50.825-07:00Health Caravan in Moshi: A New Face on the Team<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Last week I volunteered in a health caravan near Moshi, Tanzania.<span style=""> </span>It was organized by Pamoja Tunaweza (Together we can) , a non governmental organization (NGO) started by two doctors from Queens university.<span style=""> </span>The goal of the caravan was to provide free health care to people in underserved , rural areas and on most days we saw 240 women, children and men.<span style=""> </span>My dad was one of the doctors on the team.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I worked as part of the triage team and a woman named Chrissy from Sudbury was my team leader.<span style=""> </span>My jobs changed every day but included:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-numbering<span style=""> </span>patients charts<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-weighing <span style=""> </span>people, including infants which can be tricky<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-directing people to care stations<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-assisting elderly people (bibis and babus) to move through the caravan stations and receive their medications<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-counting out medications which were dispensed<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-helping <span style=""> </span>the main Tanzanian triage person, Diallo, with crowd control<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">-feeding<span style=""> </span>the doctors and nurses Tanzanian doughnuts (mandazis) so they wouldn’t be too exhausted<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I felt the experience was demanding, tiring, dusty and worthwhile.<span style=""> </span>Seeing the gratitude of people after they were helped was satisfying and I really admired the energy and good teamwork of the other Canadians I was with.<span style=""> </span>I was the youngest and the oldest caravan member must have been nearly 70 years old.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I hope I will return to help with future caravans , perhaps as a pediatrician after<span style=""> </span>I have finished all my training.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <br /><br /></m:defjc></m:rmargin></m:lmargin></m:dispdef></m:smallfrac>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-22346103622725084762011-02-18T15:23:00.000-08:002011-02-18T16:21:16.763-08:00Kilema 2011: And Then What Happened<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";font-size:12pt;" ><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK3jKXR2vbWTswDGwna-OBeuH4-v2w9guvDhBnjwy3kkatHa0_a2wG7qXDjKT84OApyxWfwzFZDw5KBVLdqWYWbnQ0LJZd9fzutF71lGXbfCraXtrleRlArl82-CmLbv9wt1xB6Xdnvkw/s1600/P1102148.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK3jKXR2vbWTswDGwna-OBeuH4-v2w9guvDhBnjwy3kkatHa0_a2wG7qXDjKT84OApyxWfwzFZDw5KBVLdqWYWbnQ0LJZd9fzutF71lGXbfCraXtrleRlArl82-CmLbv9wt1xB6Xdnvkw/s320/P1102148.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575173807766814226" border="0" /></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";font-size:12pt;" ><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";font-size:12pt;" ><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" >Most of you will know that I am writing this from Victoria, home now for two weeks but still reflecting on our final busy week and hoping to remember what was an eventful, satisfying, moving and often funny experience in blog form. A bit of a hole in the visual record exists now after a stealthy hand got my camera at the Moshi bus station two days before leaving Tanzania, so we need to remember in words.<br /><br />Wonderful days are ones spent in the village, where we hike along footpaths and visit the homes of sponsored children. It is a privilege. This trip we organized three days of home visits which are the only way to get to know the caregivers of the orphans, to see and assess the level of poverty and determine if the sponsorship continues to be well founded. We visited four orphan families in Mandaka, three in Sembeti to the to east and four in Ruwa where KSF funded students study at Rukima and Ifati schools. Six of us including two Canadian medical students from Ottawa, Naill and Bojana, taxied up to Ifati and Rukima and pulled out the box of counter notebooks to be divided among the students, 4 each. After providing bank receipts for the students funded this year we set off on foot through a maze of red paths that link individual shambas, meeting and greeting people along the way and accompanied by one of the Ifati teachers who spoke English well and was in every way charming. The first house was a cement structure owned by the grandfather of Ifati student Augustina Mlay and is where Augustina and her mother live. Father had died and the mother makes money by subsistence, selling corn and mangoes and working as a day labourer on other shambas. The mother looked well though was desperately shy to have such a large group of wzungu( white people)in the house. But everyone knows it is part of the job of sponsoring; to evaluate the caregivers and homes, economic means, presence of cows or goats, size of land plots and whether other relatives may be present and contributing to household income. Like single mothers everywhere she has significant challenges.<br />We carried on farther downhill to Stella Mrema's shamba, with house made of wood slats, pole and mud. Her mother has been ill with a cough for one year and was distinctly weak. Naill, the med student along with us remarked that of his list of differential diagnosis none were good. This mother, unable to work, survived off the charity of others and I felt grateful we've sponsored her daughter Stella who speaks excellent English and has described some very specific academic goals. She wants to be a university science professor. It was a reassurance that all these girls progressed so well at often disadvantaged government schools. All of them were forthright and spoke quite wonderful English. Both remaining students had family members trying to make a living on now very small shambas, divided through the generations until no sizable plot remained to sustain a family. Our guide, Godina, had the quote of the day. " The only shamba left for our children is an education".<br /><br />An afternoon of walking around rural communities is physically taxing and a good reminder that local people are tough. We never saw anyone eating or drinking en route even as we sipped at our water and divided up the mandazi buns. Most seem to hold on to their need or discomfort quietly until they get the opportunity to relieve it. The students had even been courteously carrying our bags so after the final home visit we climb out of the last ravine and tucked into a local bar up on the main road for sodas all around. By 4 pm and refreshed by a Coke we needed to head home and so started walking, our student escorts at the ready. We planned to hitch for 15 minutes then call a taxi if we needed to. Before long a water project truck, full of wzungus, pulled up in a cloud of red dust.... but didn't stop, to our surprise. Next came a diocese pickup also trailing a red cloud which pulled to a stop well beyond us, the driver ambivalent and more eager to greet local friends with a calabash of mbege on offer. Rushing our goodbyes, we hurled ourselves into the back and it was Lockie first who said, "There are pigs in here!" Well, for a boy this was a heavenly discovery. Even the rest of us, glowing with contentment at a productive day, felt quite warm toward a dozen baby piglets, experienced as we were with a few weeks of quirky living. Somehow at Kilema everything seems to work out fine in the end.<br /><br />In the final week we welcomed a second group of visitors to Kilema Hospital, two high school principals Jeff and Steve (who I know well from previous visits starting in 2008) and 16 grade eleven /twelve students. All brought with them enthusiasm for a rich experience in East Africa but also a viral plague from Canada. Within a night the visitor center was strewn with unwell teenagers, bag lined boxes next to the head of each. By 2AM Sunday was at my door, "Mama, they need you at the visitor centre. They all sick". One student wanted to return home. Others were anxious, being so far from home. The following day more students and Jeff failed to show for breakfast and the group and the day's program divided in two, one for the sick and one for the well. Audrey generously played nurse, counselor and den mother to the afflicted. I confess we cringed (but were very empathic) when one girl complained about her mattress- the one we had quietly switched from Cacha house that was so awful! The following night Sunday called me again to go to the visitors centre for another complaint and I was met by both brave and grim faces and gallows humour among the chaperons. By now I know the group recovered, enjoying an albeit shorter program of school visits, teaching experiences, infrastructure projects and having a team building experience that they'll reflect on for years to come. I am reminded that there is a challenging adjustment to life in Tanzania even without illness to complicate things further. But it is still worth encouraging people to experience this part of the world and places like it. Hats off to Steve, Jeff, Carolyn and Anne. You survived!<br /><br /><br />On January 21st our KSF Tuition Project cash transfer arrived as part of a larger transfer to the Kilema OVC program and we relished getting on with the remaining leg work of bank deposits, which guarantee student acceptance at school. The school headmaster needs to see the deposit receipt from the school's bank. At first the blocks of cash, the size of a small wedding cake, had us giddy, with the largest denomination equivalent to $10. The transfer for KSF Tuition Project was $12,800 shilling or $9000.00 Canadian, all from donations. Quickly though we got earnest and eager to pay out our tuitions and in a sense off load some cash as quickly as possible. This would be the banking day for many students Sunday and Irene oversee through the Kilema OVC and for our KSF tuition Project students, about 65 students in total though some are still waiting for results. At CRDB bank we hastily deposited the following in Tanzanian shilling: Can$1=$1,465TSH<br /><br />Elinora Kway - $ 786,000 for Olaleni Secondary school<br />Jenifer Mehenge- $500,000 for Mandaka Vocational<br />Henry Shayo- $ 295,000 for Kilimanjaro Driving School /$ 500,000 for Mandaka Vocational<br />Victoria Temu- $110,000 for Resesa Secondary School<br />Elizabeth Shirimu- $147,000 for Resesa Secondary School<br />Elidaima G Tarimu-$147,000 for Resesa Secondary school<br />Lucina Mshanga- $196,000 for Ngaruma Vocational School<br />Neema S Mteema- $196 for Ngaruma Vocational school<br />Maximilian Raziki- $800,000 for Uomboni Seconday school<br />Zenais Kyara- $660, 000 for Hai Vocational School<br /><br /><br />With Sister Clarissa, our ride, held up at Kilema Hospital we split up the bundles of cash, even Audrey muling an envelope-wrapped block, and caught a cramped dalla dalla to Moshi, heading directly for NBC Bank branch on the clock tower corner.<br /><br />Franki Kulaya-$313,500 for Lombeta Secondary school<br />Joseph Living Kimaro- $313,500 for Lombeta Secondary school<br />Happy Kaviche-$313,500 Lombeta Secondary school<br />Deo Honest Kundi- $610,000 Lombeta Secondary school<br />Happyness Vernance Shirima-$ 300,000 Lombeta Secondary school<br />Beatrice Msoma- $ 330,000 Lombeta Secondary school<br /><br />Completing these Sunday, Irene and I hustled through busy markets to the Nelson Mandela Bank and sat on the floor with our deposit slips, counting out funds amidst throngs of people there for the same reason. School fees. I was happy to see the bank open since the previous week I had seen water pouring out across the marble, under the front glass doors, down the steps and into the open sewer. We passed through the" bulk cash" door at the rear of the bank into a small cubicle where I've seen police and army chiefs enter under armed guard before. Here we began the remaining multiple deposits while a very patient teller saw closing time pass her by.<br /><br />Flora Alexander Riwa -$110,000 Mrereni Secondary school<br />Ambrose Tesha- $320,000 Msinga Vocational school<br />Glory M. Njau-$400,000 Narumu Secondary school<br />Samuel Shayo-$171,000 Kisaluni Secondary school<br />Doreen T. Lyimo $138,000 Ifati Secondary school<br />Jackline P Mosha $138,000 Ifati<br />Violeth P. Kessy -$138,000 Ifati<br />Christopher F Tairo -$138,000 Ifati<br />Elizabeth Mboya -$138,000 Ifati<br />Stella E. Mrema- $138,000 Ifati<br />Erica E Kessy-$104,000 Ifati<br />Gasto S. Lyimo- $138,000 Ifati<br />epiphania M Temu-$105,000 Rukima Secondary School<br />Idda N. Mashina- $ 105,000 Rukima<br />Augustine M Mlay-$105,000 Rukima<br />Glory J Mlay-$105,000 Rukima<br />Andrea F. Mosha-$105,000 Rukima<br />Eric Minde-$100,000 Pakula Secondary school<br /><br /><br />Further students were paid directly at the school during a village visit in Sembeti a few days later on a wonderful village visit with Rose Minja, originally from Zambia who works at that village OVC program.<br />Ester Gasper Lyamuya $53,000 Kirefure Primary school<br />Goodluck Alen Kimaro $53,000 Kirefure Primary school<br />Germin G. Kipokola $53,000 Kirefure Primary school<br />Emanuel Charles Lyimo $53,000 Kirefure Primary school<br />Glory Filex Nyange-$53,000 Sembeti Primary<br />Selina v. Mshanga-$50,000 Mengeni Primary<br />Daniel V. Mshanga -$50,000 Mengeni Primary<br /><br /><br />Student Franki Kilasi received funding in December 2010( 570,000) for entrance into a teaching college and on the second to last day I bolted to Arusha on a local bus then taxi to the Bishop Durning teacher college in Samawary. Franki had been frantically texting about my whereabouts and arrival time and I worried the same fate would befall him as Maximilian. But the headmaster reported Franki was adhering to the abundant school rules and that no "bad influences would be tempted to the school" due to elicit cell phone calls. Franki, a double orphan with a remaining uncle in Mbeya, looked fit and enthusiastic and expects to be a primary school teacher within two years. He was thrilled and wished me to send his thanks to everyone as do so many of the students.<br /><br />The remaining 23 students are awaiting form 4 results which will not be out until the end of February. Sunday and Irene will be following up with their progress and if they have passed and are able to proceed to Form 5 ( grade 12) we will fund them. The question is what to do if they fail to pass. The larger Kilema OVC program cannot continue to fund these students and as a part of that program KSF students should be bound by the same rule. We will wait and see and at the very least hope to offer students driving lessons or a short vocational program for specific skills. For a summary of preliminary funding for 2011 in Excel form, receipts, or funding summaries for previous years please contact Cacha at<a href="www.cacha.ca"> </a><a href="www.cacha.ca">cacha.ca</a> or me at sjmalahoff@hotmail.com.<br /><br />We'll miss many things about Kilema. Returning to Cacha house from dinner in the final week I commented that the stars are especially bright when the power goes out and within minutes Audrey and me, all the hospital wards and outbuildings were plunged into complete blackness. Enough moonless obscurity to cause Audrey and I to cling and shriek. Even after our eyes adjusted we couldn't see to navigate the path and holding on to each other we inched ahead, our feet like tentacles feeling for the grass at the path edge. "Where's your new cell phone," asked Audrey, "with the built in flash light!?" Lockie had been playing 'snakes' during dinner and still had it. Immediately the wind gusted and rainfall started along with our own laughter and both increased in volume as we looked for the faintest of visual clues in the blackness. Nearing home the CIDA interns sitting on our porch lit our way with their own cell phones and as the rain cleared we stood out under the stars and marveled at various constellations and the brilliant Milky Way trail of lights across the sky. The candles and kerosene lamps were glowing on the wards by then and we hoped they'd delay starting the generator. Stargazing during the blackout was how we spent our final evening at Kilema, in fact. Lockie pulled two chairs out from under the porch and insisted we sit under the night sky and try impossibly to commit it to memory.<br /><br />I certainly miss our traveling family, Audrey and Claire Takoski and for a week Priya Machado and Rob our film makers from Amsterdam and of course Lockie. All were resilient, enthusiastic, flexible, helpful and very funny and I thank them for all they put into this experience. We would have had no purpose in going if not for all the donations this year from a wide community near and far which provided the above children with membership in school, something we take for granted in Canada. Enormous thanks to every contributor! There were many.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style=";font-family:";font-size:100%;" >Here's the link to photos from our 2011 adventure!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-family:";font-size:100%;" ><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/crrfraser/Kilema2011"><span style="color:blue;">http://picasaweb.google.com/crrfraser/Kilema2011</span></a><br /><br />and finally ......we ate the rooster in the end.</span><span style=""></span></p>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-82675785289086366402011-02-16T12:01:00.000-08:002011-02-22T07:52:08.197-08:00Thoughts from Audrey<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1tcl6HGD_90vl5mU8eJs3v7RX2XTv5yN9WHfvckDO5GltfL1xcOf1Mj5Sdm5TunWhFsDT_2wRoQWoMRQa8zRc-c8UTW1LPupkVZkpn6K3TLvWZrLmzp3a5M1eRev3bpqjtK10vRQssrd/s1600/P1090244.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1tcl6HGD_90vl5mU8eJs3v7RX2XTv5yN9WHfvckDO5GltfL1xcOf1Mj5Sdm5TunWhFsDT_2wRoQWoMRQa8zRc-c8UTW1LPupkVZkpn6K3TLvWZrLmzp3a5M1eRev3bpqjtK10vRQssrd/s320/P1090244.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574391274930962690" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisnQmRl7X6guVWo_tA_ZsjwOVO1YwwxPkZFM4f0xpcyc_6qT4VciFLQ2xC5uiVBpKC-EfbP2zdGShshCOISs3TBn4rCdfCKKMrGTRgum0fjDUCc8sztpLGDA8DWeNddaar_-TVY6gVyBHu/s1600/P1090817.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisnQmRl7X6guVWo_tA_ZsjwOVO1YwwxPkZFM4f0xpcyc_6qT4VciFLQ2xC5uiVBpKC-EfbP2zdGShshCOISs3TBn4rCdfCKKMrGTRgum0fjDUCc8sztpLGDA8DWeNddaar_-TVY6gVyBHu/s320/P1090817.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574390824712574402" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsT8ajUDwKeuXsWOJtnUI-I_cfi2G7UNcUUIPMdgyj4t_q_GglBlAsf5GFaV6w9HuE5_CDjhhby5AeLuI9iz7hFZfFwqyFvCAFozTBxmE7Qvdxxn1tdGwNF9Lyzo3ezS6p4AtgxTEGW2Y/s1600/P1090298.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsT8ajUDwKeuXsWOJtnUI-I_cfi2G7UNcUUIPMdgyj4t_q_GglBlAsf5GFaV6w9HuE5_CDjhhby5AeLuI9iz7hFZfFwqyFvCAFozTBxmE7Qvdxxn1tdGwNF9Lyzo3ezS6p4AtgxTEGW2Y/s320/P1090298.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574389891760363042" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AdkCu8IWlGtYANUTw8kGB5zVuqTGcaVLXGxvRELPPZLIY_m62GF0GC0PMT7m2L2VHpqIoGCfHpL6oLZDJ0iEn4d1eX89T966MClDoLaMbyOgmnKR_AEgxpI-37WD2MYO6ThbVklA_wBU/s1600/P1090271.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AdkCu8IWlGtYANUTw8kGB5zVuqTGcaVLXGxvRELPPZLIY_m62GF0GC0PMT7m2L2VHpqIoGCfHpL6oLZDJ0iEn4d1eX89T966MClDoLaMbyOgmnKR_AEgxpI-37WD2MYO6ThbVklA_wBU/s320/P1090271.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574389185371890034" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghRlWvE2u1j-ah-2Dfsh_k2vQ6ZiRTuMj0BIRjnjmBtV9lddZwUg1CBfR26TW8GsAKQ_C8TXxhwTUtLB9Gmnp4zHbvGcpB4OqY8haDTkEzsMfHK3Ew00V39Ttba4KYh_l4ks-yZiVVLVr3/s1600/P1031800.JPG"><br /></a><br /><span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:medium;" ><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgleXyC4XmFvWs2PSoAClEgo199ZLHBjnki9TSrWojeKGjDg1XExxjQYlP2aNLIPh7n5bocDfaSr0HpIJr1XGMC8e4vwGeDeepjoL1NtEb_U9vNEQfstuJv75Vt0QXh7uKzB6nkCa_KwUTo/s1600/P1051912.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgleXyC4XmFvWs2PSoAClEgo199ZLHBjnki9TSrWojeKGjDg1XExxjQYlP2aNLIPh7n5bocDfaSr0HpIJr1XGMC8e4vwGeDeepjoL1NtEb_U9vNEQfstuJv75Vt0QXh7uKzB6nkCa_KwUTo/s320/P1051912.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574388294589855650" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Well, we're home now and our traveling family has fractured not only through the neighbourhood, but even in our big home. The four of us were hardly 10 feet apart most of the last month, and I am so<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />grateful for that experience. I've learned and experienced so much. I've been thinking a lot about our visit to Tanzania the last coupleof days. One thing being is that I think I'm of African decent some life back. Have you seen how I pick weeds in the garden!?(I know, that's a rare sighting). Straight legs and bent at the waist just like my dadas in Tanzania.<br />Secondly and more seriously, I am so grateful to have had such great teachers to travel with. Lockie was such a trooper. I never heard him complain once! And if a 10 year old can walk 5 hours mid day from village to village through the forest , dirt roads and 30+ C heat with about a half a litre of water, surely I can too! He was game for anything. Always thoughtful of everyone else including at our Kili hour where he was a gracious host, opening our beer on the door jam and serving up casava chips or peanuts. I heard Lockie say more than once " Aww, that poor woman, hey mom?" or " They have a really good house, hey mom?" as we walked away from a shamba with a tidy stick<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />and mud house with a metal corrugated roof and even a concrete floor! And of course, Stephanie, who taught me to tread lightly and be gracious! I'll never forget the fear that overtook me when one of the orphans who we were visiting started to bring out bowls of their daily meal to share with us as a way of saying thank you. It was nothing I was familiar with eating and not very pretty...a banana and bean mixture made with water from goodness knows where. I just looked at Stephanie in a way that was saying "Quick! Do something! I can't eat that @*#t !" Of course Stephanie managed to leave everyone smiling and shaking hands with her beautiful smile and her " Thank you so much but<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />we don't need anything. We are all just fine." Then there was my typical muzungoo idea of "Hey, I should get a bunch of candy to give to all the kids at the schools and stuff!" Stephanie<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />just looked at me , held her lips firmly together , closed her eyes, and shook her head slowly . "Oh I guess that's not a good idea, hey?" "No Audrey, I don't think so" she said gently.<br /><span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />After experiencing a few days of eating the basic food which consisted of about 12 ingredients, I wondered why my experienced travel partner hadn't brought a rucksack full of chocolate, granola bars, real coffee, spices,etc. Our instructions were" All of your personal belongings will have to fit in a carry-on bag because we'll need all our checked baggage for donations". What! Have you seen my closet!!! And I have size 10 feet! Being used to living with a foodie like Matthew, It got pretty tiring eating bland beans and rice and processed white bread with one ingredient being "bread improver". But by the end, I realized the wisdom of my dada(sister). I was grateful that we could interact with all these people who had so little(some families literally not knowing where their meal would come from tomorrow, relying on donations from neighbours) and feel that we used our resources wisely and instead supported the local economy. Now don't get me wrong! We did not go without! We did indulge with our evening at the Kilimanjaro Resort and our pizzas and Indian food any chance we went into the big town of Moshi. And oh how wonderful that cold beer tasted at 5pm on the porch! It made it that much more enjoyable! And I did manage to stimulate the economy. Those fabrics! Such beautiful patterns and colours.<br />And what about our Safari? sitting on the patio at the Tarangeri Lodge, where you could see for miles and miles, and witnessing a herd of giraffes(is it a herd??) drinking at the river and eventually moving on. It was like heaven on earth!<br /><span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />It was such a great experience for Claire too. We got along great and my little pampered princess made me proud. It brought a content smile on my face when she'd enthusiastically hop out of bed if<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />there was a boiled egg or porridge for breakfast. She suffered terribly from her allergies between the constant dust from the talc-like red clay roads and the corn husks being dried and processed<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />everywhere around us. Between her breathing and blowing her nose, it was like sleeping beside a bear and an elephant! After a couple of weeks, she seemed to adjust a bit and breath a little easier and complained very little. She met a some great young interns from Canada who were studying in various areas of community health. Roll models which gave her a much wider scope to consider when she heads back to university. She is also very enthusiastic about participating in the<span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />volunteer program at the Amani street orphanage that we visited after she puts in a couple more years at school.<br /><span class="ecxApple-converted-space"> </span><br />So thanks again Stephanie and Lockie, and thanks Chris, Sasha, and Eva for lending me the rest of your family for a month. It was a trip I will always remember and cherish! Asante Sana!<br />Audrey<br /><br />For a sampling of January 2011 pictures....<br /></span><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/crrfraser/Kilema2011"><span><span style="line-height: 115%;font-family:";font-size:100%;" ><span style="color:blue;">http://picasaweb.google.com/crrfraser/Kilema2011</span></span></span></a><br /><span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:medium;" ><span class="ecxApple-converted-space"><br /></span></span>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-32903672350433828002011-01-23T00:05:00.000-08:002011-01-27T23:33:21.425-08:00A Day in the LIfeThese last two weeks have been a busy time with school and village visits, each day planned the day before with at least a few options in the hopes that one or more work out. In most cases the day unfolds, often with serendipity, and to our own surprise we accomplish quite abit and still make it home before dark. Many people ask me how the specifics of the day go so I thought I would describe an average one, say our school visit day on Tuesday or Jumanane.<br /><br />We stay in a cement block house we call Cacha house named after our NGO. Even Audrey says, " I like our little Cacha house," though her first task upon arriving was to do a thorough cleaning. Now the standards have dropped and even Audrey feels the futility in fighting the red dirt and is relieved that "at least this dirt is our dirt". About 4:30 AM the roosters nearby begin to crow and other birds, black and orange, land and take off from the metal roof. The church bells start at 5:30. This clanging is just a taste of what is to come at six. We climb out from under mosquito nets and there is some taking stock; toenails, bites and the day's agenda. The shower stall is painted naval gray but we have hot water from a heating tank in the corner. We put the padlock on the door of the kitchen that Audrey says reminds her of Heritage Park in Calgary. Up past the hospital to the new but unfinished Visitor Centre we pass through a corrogated metal barrier into a block room with high ceilings and a long dining table covered in clear plastic. Echos bounce. Powdered Africa cafe with powdered Nido milk is mixed with boiling water from a thermos. This gets us going. There is toast( if the power is on), bananas, tomatoes and one boiled egg per person. After breakfast we thank Emeliana, " Asante sana kwa chai" and head to the OVC office to get ready the day.<br /><br />Our plan is to visit six schools so Sunday and Irene are on it knowing this is a tall order. Then Sunday disappears for awhile and we find out he was tasked to get milk from St. James school but eventually, after a wait, he returns and we pile into the truck. As we pass through the hospital gate Maximilian's mother, who has come from 10 km away, runs up to the car in her best kitange with a rooster in a cardboard box, a thank you for the school support her son is receiving! Hoots go up as we debate to eat it or reproduce it. The rooster has since spent the last few days under, and tied to, a wooden box in the dining room as we decide it's fate.<br /><br />Taking the car means that you have to put gas in it and the one riding in the car needs to put the gas in it. The hospital can't afford to underwrite others travel even if it means not filling up the car at the last gas station, last trip. So we widely detour to Marangu, 10 km to the east and find in the middle of a dirt clearing a gas pump and a table with Kili wter bottles full of kerosene, the gas station. There is no gas for the car. So down the tarmac road to Himo at the base of Kilimanjaro we go. At the next station the power is out so the pump will not work. At the third station the worker just waves us on with no explaination. Still further, almost half way to Moshi we fill up and consider the cost in mileage just to do it!<br /><br />Now that we are in the lowland we decide to visit the schools starting at the lowest elevation and work up the mountain, Mandaka Vocational first. We are greeted and brought into the room where the headmaster, the second head and the secretary work each at separate tables piled high with papers and files, untidily. While reviewing results and discussing fees for the four kSF students, in the next room a plumbing class is in session and students are transcribing notes and drawings from an old plumbing text so precisely it's beautiful, pipes and connections all labelled. In the mechanic shop a few motors and other parts are raised on wooden blocks around an old vehicle, which sits like a cadaver in a dissecting class. The wood shop is empty except for the teacher among a pile of wood sawing with the handsaw backward, two hands pushing down and away from him, similar to how men in the village handsaw planks. The headmaster says the man is left handed with only a right-handed saw. Finally to the welding shop where we look at a new pushcart the school designed, now tested in the village.<br /><br />On to Mrereni secondary school where the sign threatens punishment if anything but English is is spoken and then wishes us a warm welcome. Margareth Mboya has passed Form 4 and we are waiting for exams results. Anna finished Form 4 but then... ooops...suddenly married despite asking for nursing training last spring. At least she's had 4 years secondary schooling which statistically could boost her income earning by 10% with each year completed. Same with Agatha but visiting her home the next day and seeing the poverty of surroundings and mental illness in her mother I wondered if she found some benefits to marriage. Another student Fora Riwa has replaced her for school sponsorship. We visited her home too, a tidy shamba with a pole and mud house where her mother cares for a paraplegic husband injured in an accident. Laying in a dark back room, catheter bag on the dirt floor, the air thick and organic, he was very happy to greet us and uncovered two useless legs with the skin surprisingly intact. These are the sorts of families that can be helped by relieving them of the burden of school fees so they can deal with a myriad of other challenges. By the way we spied some red chilies growing among her bananas and made a purchase of some of the hottest flamers that later Lockie has his face pressed into a plate of rice to kill the pain. <br />Onward and upward we stopped next at Olaleni in time to see the kids receiving a non-denominational morality lecture. After, we arrived to Ifati and Rukima where 15 KSF students still await results for Form 4 and finally we arrived to Lombeta to wait in a long line of locals for teachers to finish their meeting so we could discuss school fees, the light beginning to fall out of the sky. We studied results posted on the walls to find that 2 out of 6 KSF students had failed to pass exams and that 10 of Sunday and Irene's Cacha funded students had failed. While waiting we discussed best actions to take. Do we repeat? Do we give second chances? Exams are so critical here, the only measure of performance. But what if Raziki's brother died a week before he sat the exam? Many issues we discussed as light fell, deepening the colors of trees and the orange and purple uniforms on the landscape. Before dark we arrived through the gates of Kilema with waves to the guard. Showers, Tuskers, dinner and early to bed.<br />So there is a day....unfolded.<br />PS I discovered why our young prodigal student was discharged from St. James. After a visit to his newUomboni school, so far up the mountain the air is cool and Kilimanjaro's top looks like a hill, I met with Maxi and the headmaster who asked him to quietly shut the door before his confession. He was caught with a cell phone against regulations. Imagine that!Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-31851316677022783272011-01-17T03:27:00.001-08:002011-01-20T08:09:25.135-08:00Status Update: Physical and OtherwiseOur party of six is all well now though Rob from Holland was down hard with illness after discovering he <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">had</span> consumed a non-veg <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">mmembe</span> or mango. White wriggling proteins and other microbiology had us starting Cipro before long( thanks for the supply Dr. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">Freigang</span>!)with favorable results. Rob was up though weak the next day and filmed again in his <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">focused</span> way thereafter. Even Audrey began dosing with Rob's leftover tabs. This trip has had us tucking into the first aid kit with some regularity, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Lockie</span> with self-inflicted road rash after a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">sandal</span> kicking <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">competition</span>. Well schooled in tropical risks he said to Claire, "I need a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">band aid</span> right away. We need <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">polysporin</span>, Claire. We are in Africa, you know!" He has scrapes on his scrapes after tripping down the walk carrying our daily supply of beverages, Tuskers, Serengetis and Kilimanjaros which he is responsible for purchasing at the duka. As a fridge stocker he is under-age but enthusiastic, paid in Fanta passion soda and consuming 1-2 per day! <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Claire's</span> allergies have plagued her with constant dust, especially earth and maize all around. Bites of various size and description are counted daily and I for one am happy to have fresh non-expired <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-error">benedryl</span> on hand. But this Sunday morning we are all sitting at the YMCA taking coffee <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">on the</span> terrace, watching clouds form beneath Kilimanjaro, power out, modem useless, texts delayed but all in reasonable health.<br /><br />This week has been busy largely devoted to filming and orienting our group to the new surroundings. We have been lucky enough to capture both orphan distribution days which are a significant part of what the program here does. First the school supplies and uniforms last week and then a food distribution this Saturday. The fundi or workman carried huge kilo sacks of maize into the store room fresh from grinding at the parish mill. Bags of maize like a set of drums were set up around Lockie and Audrey, with a plastic juice pitcher to portion out the maize flour. At home this is mixed with water and stirred on the fire to make ugali the local starchy staple. The method is similar to making oatmeal. Claire measured <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">dried</span> beans in the same manner. Children who need food, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">about 50% of the orphans,receive</span> a pitcher of maize and beans, a bar of hard but excellent washing soap( I bring it home to Canada!) and a liter of cooking oil. While Sunday the OVC coordinator screened the arriving children, Rob and Priya filmed and I stationed myself at the oil distribution station, dipping and pouring by funnel, palm and sunflower oil into old plastic water bottles and various grimy containers. Familiar faces were many among children and grandmothers there to collect and again many happy reunions and greetings. Again I was left with the impression of growing, maturing children; faces the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">same</span> but bodies much bigger.<br /><br />Later in the day after gulping lunch we set off to catch a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_20" class="blsp-spelling-error">dalla</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_21" class="blsp-spelling-error">dalla</span> to Moshi town, with all our group wondering when the wreck would stop admitting new passengers. Not yet done for the day we set off to the markets on double road to look for filming opportunities among tailors and cobblers working busily in the spin off economy that the start of school stimulates. After a few false starts with wary tradespeople we met an <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23" class="blsp-spelling-error">mzee</span>( old man) making shoes for the last 40 years. It turned out he was from <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24" class="blsp-spelling-error">Mauwa</span> village which I know and we both know <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_25" class="blsp-spelling-error">Exupery</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_26" class="blsp-spelling-error">Mosha</span> a local councilman who helps me with many students at <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_27" class="blsp-spelling-error">Ifati</span> and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_28" class="blsp-spelling-error">Rukima</span> schools. In payment I ordered 3 pair size 9 girls school shoes, jet black, sturdy and most surprisingly coveted. The tailor we filmed was a young woman willing to sew a blue primary school skirt on camera. Her friend near by turned out to be an orphan who was sponsored by <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_29" class="blsp-spelling-error">Priya's</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_30" class="blsp-spelling-error">NGO</span> contact <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_31" class="blsp-spelling-error">Kiwwakuki</span>. So connections all around and in a very <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_32" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">African</span> way! We've reviewed segments of the footage now that we are done and it's really something. I welcome having a pro around to capture the subtleties and individual character of some of the people here and hope that the short we produce will be a helpful teaching tool. Many thanks to Rob and Priya for jumping on the task!<br /><br />Vocational school is not yet open so looking for teaching opportunities for Claire and Audrey elsewhere. On Thursday, children with HIV came in to be seen at the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_33" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">CTC</span> (Counselling and Treatment Centre), a safe and non-stigmatizing acronym for HIV clinic. After being seen by Dr. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_34" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nyaki</span> and team on the first floor they drifted up en mass to visit big brother bear, Sunday in the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_35" class="blsp-spelling-error">OVC</span> office and he napped amongst them on his lunch break. Audrey and Claire took advantage of the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_36" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">cluster</span> of children to teach <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_37" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">English</span>, draw and read stories. I watched Audrey read a story to a little girl who had her chin in hand, elbow tucked into Audrey's lap. Teachers often express great satisfaction here working with so many eager and attentive children. That sea of smiling faces is always one of the highlights of being here.<br /><br />The day at Kilema unfolds in a very unpredictable ways so I have taken advantage of the uncertainty by posting myself in the OVC office to receive a trickle of students, caregivers and advocates who arrive unannounced but often right in the nick of time. It happened again that just as I needed Augustine to confer on some detail he walks into the office, a kindly small man who has been the most consistent advisor and helpful home based care worker. This time he has brought his reading glasses which are as round as a coffee mug, covering most of his forehead and the arms of which are too short to reach behind his ears so stop on top. The lens are thick and magnify warm brown eyes. He has brought Ambrose Tesha who is now a giant of a boy, fully matured and heading into his final year of vocational studies- construction. He has brought his certificates showing a B in his trade theory. Vocational has been a good decision for him. Jenipher Mehenge came in by herself and was able to describe her competency in installing florescent lights, bulb lights and the sockets needed to juice mine and a million ofher cell phones. Her english was as clear as her gaze and I could see a change in her level of confidence. She left with counterbooks, pens and pencils and shirts from GlenLyon Norfolk School. The mother of Maximillian Raziki, a widow on treatment, arrived with a kitange for a gift and the news that her son, KSF programs's best performing student, had been asked to leave St. James Seminary for "unavoidable reasons." St. James is certainly the best school in the district on one of the best in the country and is a place where priests are made. Perhaps his crime is that he likes girls. Perhaps he is more interested in receiving an excellent education than becoming a priest, a common deception.What ever the case we will continue to help him complete his studies at Umboni Secondary school in Marangu. I'll let you know what his secret is when I find out. Actually I'm dying to know. St Seminary has wished for us abundant blessings in the meantime.<br /><br />Well more on village and school visits later...for now...tutaonana badaaye kidogo.Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-60678738288844074462011-01-12T09:50:00.000-08:002011-01-12T22:53:57.900-08:00Karibu Kilema<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal">Greetings to everyone in Canada!<span style=""> </span>You sure seem<span style=""> </span>far away especially after our epic three day journey here complete with an<span style=""> </span>unexpected stopover in Nairobi after our connection left early, yes early.<span style=""> </span>Our reduced fare price seemed less a good deal and we were introduced to considerable bureaucracy early in the game with a cascade of kiosk lineups for Kenyan visas, transport and accommodation vouchers.<span style=""> </span>Mellow officials provided multiple good lessons in letting go. <span style=""> </span>I strained to see what I could of Nairobi through a small sprawl of warehouses until we reached our hotel where my card key failed to unlock the door of my room after three tries and that’s when the guard with the widest and most brilliant of smiles said “Tulia”, meaning stay calm in Swahili, expressing the most important social rule here.<span style=""> </span>Later everything was made better with a cool Tusker beer and buffet with “action cooking”, it being New Years after all.<span style=""> </span>A happy one to everyone reading!</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">We’ve all adapted well to life here especially after a few days of travel and safari up front which helps to shed some perspective on where we’ve landed.<span style=""> </span>It is a great chance for new arrivals to experience the change; the heat and dust, street dramas, grime and wear of local buses, crush of people at market, carts on the street, baskets on heads, and the smell of sweat.<span style=""> </span>Audrey and Claire have been giggling at local translations, Bobby instead of Lobby, and other idiosyncratic details of life here. Another sign read, “Please accounting your valuables.<span style=""> </span>We are not responsible for any loose of your stuffs.”<span style=""> </span>Or the best safari slogan, “we go thro’ every measure…. to give you wild pleasure.” They were game in the intense Arusha market where finding a skirt with a Value Village tag Audrey laughed and even harder after the seller asked if that was her village.<span style=""> </span>“Yes!” she said.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Lockie, our over the moon happy boy finally was fitted in Masaai shoes made out of old retreads.<span style=""> </span>Later at Meru House hostel we signed in with Harling Pointers as our ‘tribe’.<span style=""> </span>Boniface our friend and safari guide proved again his skill at sightings, producing three reclining cheetah after seeing just a flicker of tail in high grass near Ndutu.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Audrey and Claire fly swatted as many tsetsi as sighted zebra.<span style=""> </span>And in the crater two lion gnawed on a wildebeest.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span>Back in <span style=""> </span>Moshi we united with the remainder of our party Rob and Priya from Amsterdam, here to experience Kilema hospital and create a short film about the Kilema Orphan Program and the Back to School.<span style=""> </span>We piled into an unmufflered dalla dalla for the ride up to Kilema with all duffels in tow, having lost none to the Nairobi hiccup above.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">As expected we’ve been pulled happily into the busy world of Kilema Hospital since last Friday, together with a group of Rotarians from Ontario who come every year to participate in local community projects mostly school and hospital infrastructure and equipment.<span style=""> </span>After settling into our rooms (we’re sharing rooms with Sunday in Cacha house, my old home with the lovely porch next to the sometimes noisy maternity ward) the greetings began and still continue as we run into staff and friends.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Sr. Clarissa<span style=""> </span>and long serving Emiliana the cook<span style=""> </span>were full of greetings as were Sunday and Irene, local Tanzanians who run the Kilema orphan program. Cacha has three CIDA interns working on site at various jobs, which had me again reflecting on the many extraordinary young people doing interesting things here at Kilema.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Everyone sends greetings to Canada and Dr. Chris even though they agree we’ve brought a little one, Lockie.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Saturday had all of us helping to outfit about 200 local orphan or vulnerable children with shirti, skirti, shorts, socki, viatu(shoes), daftari(notebooks) pens and pencils and school bags, many of which were brought over in our duffel bags.<span style=""> </span>With so many children and unregistered orphans- orphans not connected to any support organization- it was wonderful to have extra supplies to give free.<span style=""> </span>Claire Takoski was a girl on a mission, sizing uniforms and shoes, counting out pens and pencils and taking obvious pleasure in the young children before her. Much hand holding!<span style=""> </span>Together with Audrey, Lockie and Franki, the lovely son of Rotary volunteer Irene, a few hundred pre-measured shoes were laid out and fitted with efficiency.<span style=""> </span>Rob and Priya focused on filming the distribution and we’ve since filmed interviews with Dr. Nyaki, Sr. Clarissa, Sunday and Irene and various people and details related to the OVC program.<span style=""> </span>In the last few days we’ve filmed at Kichilioni primary school, where Lockie should be attending starting tomorrow, and Kisaluni Primary and Secondary just down from Kilema hospital where many teachers displayed amazing talents while film rolled.<span style=""> </span>We were so impressed!<span style=""> </span>And they were delighted to hear it!<span style=""> </span>Much slapping handshakes and laughter after.<span style=""> </span>Filming in the village and with Moshi cobblers and tailors who make school uniforms should complete the task, with editing to follow upon returning home.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Each day since my arrival children who are funded by donors to the KSF fund trickle in and reviews of this past academic year begin along with planning for the next.<span style=""> </span>More on these details later but I’m left with a few immediate impressions.<span style=""> </span>The children are bigger and well into puberty in many cases, they look healthy, their English is better in most cases and they are speaking more directly to me without help from a representative. They are talking about goals as well as challenges.<span style=""> </span>It’s really exciting.<span style=""> </span>Many children who entered the orphan program in 2008 when we lived her are bigger, looking healthy and vibrant, even ones I know are HIV positive. Deo, who lost his remaining parent, a father in 2008,<span style=""> </span>is now a mechanic and welder in Dar salaam and greeted me with a huge smile and eye contact! .<span style=""> </span>In three years I can see remarkable progress with so many children.<span style=""> </span>I’m grateful to have this history here.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Thanks again to everyone who dropped donations and cheques at my door and to everyone who has shown and expressed interest in helping this community.<span style=""> </span>It is wonderful to be here with friends on their first visit and see them take it all in.</p><p class="MsoNormal">We are working with a modem connected to the cell communications and having trouble uploading photos so will have to wait til we go to town for better transmission.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Thanks everyone! Baadaya<br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span></p>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-69315723933769774452010-12-26T16:17:00.000-08:002011-01-03T19:30:27.484-08:00Loaded up and ready to fly<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwZJCz-Q2HJJPIvDQXTB-8mZfoCEPAyArNzuiwpu7vQyso7U7iNSAOSfyOamkKshc-A3Ahur8Xri4fmkfJozogA_Hqxosn8pDXgb8KZ_H-odTBBHNuL2tbbZBcJcuuVUfacjMecqYWDtS/s1600/P1090170.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwZJCz-Q2HJJPIvDQXTB-8mZfoCEPAyArNzuiwpu7vQyso7U7iNSAOSfyOamkKshc-A3Ahur8Xri4fmkfJozogA_Hqxosn8pDXgb8KZ_H-odTBBHNuL2tbbZBcJcuuVUfacjMecqYWDtS/s320/P1090170.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5555385694208896242" border="0" /></a><br />Wow.. school bags and supplies, shoes, white shirts and party dresses, baby joggers, fleece blankets galore! Donations, both material and financial have been exceptional. This doesn't happen without a lot of help from a lot of generous people and organizations. Many thanks to all, including the many who came right to my front door!<br /><br />On the eve of our Africa-bound departure we are weighing laden duffel bags, reviewing itineraries and travel documents and generally pulling together all manner of loose ends with growing excitement for the month ahead. For those of you who might not know, Audrey Takoski and her daughter Claire are joining Lachlan and me for a one month visit to rural Kilema Hospital on the south flank of Kilimanjaro. We will be joined by Priya Michado and her husband Rob from Amsterdam who hosted us memorably in Europe after our year in Kilimanjaro. For the month of January we'll be visiting many local schools and the homes of orphan and vulnerable children in the district, reviewing the academic progress of 65 students funded by Canadian donors to the Kilema Support Fund Tuition Project since 2008. There will be a lot of students to interview, needs to assess, shoes to order, fee forms to review, as well as the many sometimes difficult cost /benefits to analyze. We will be helping out Sunday Shalula and Ireni who work now at the Kilema Tegemeo Orphan program coordinating services and funding for some 200 other OVC's out of the roughly 800-1000 in the district. It is a delight to see the program working well in their capable hands. Our jobs this time of the year are similar. It's Back to School.<br />Besides completing our school related commitments we hope to visit two orphanages in Moshi to scout for a few young Canadians who wish to volunteer in the near future, a Masaai girls achool and a teachers college in Arusha where one of our students, Franki Kilasi studies. Priya comes from the NGO sector and has links to many Kiwwakuki women's projects near Kilema so we hope to tag along where we can and build connections and better understanding of the local reality.Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-33058687317538624322010-09-30T16:37:00.000-07:002010-10-21T14:02:58.180-07:00Kilema 2010 Student Sponsorships:Asante!<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaa4JEwRTHKwrUpmdbykd9NCTMI26acjh72nFWXBZH3kEU9B-WsjCuJmzd1ZpDg8sK2lcrk81uuSkQciiPkxI7_9db4QHZqrl_E2o6LtA1yBgktAzUpIriQksVUl7mZcNZREZtDXFFPN2/s1600/P1040134.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529477585219903810" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 240px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaa4JEwRTHKwrUpmdbykd9NCTMI26acjh72nFWXBZH3kEU9B-WsjCuJmzd1ZpDg8sK2lcrk81uuSkQciiPkxI7_9db4QHZqrl_E2o6LtA1yBgktAzUpIriQksVUl7mZcNZREZtDXFFPN2/s320/P1040134.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1-rJc_hIiXbYU8gImbH8Bq-ket8TURmS0fAK6cRw5i16zQ-k1tP6fH7c6-9lEj43oMqIdFSABJHvyHUn5H22p_3GGAPxXfhZsSe6HW3kBTawMESdOMt8SOWveeRxNvuGIDPRJr7T78wq/s1600/P1040145.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529477454812967714" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 240px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1-rJc_hIiXbYU8gImbH8Bq-ket8TURmS0fAK6cRw5i16zQ-k1tP6fH7c6-9lEj43oMqIdFSABJHvyHUn5H22p_3GGAPxXfhZsSe6HW3kBTawMESdOMt8SOWveeRxNvuGIDPRJr7T78wq/s320/P1040145.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfcWU6B3QLqN5obWW3oQJfSkGbdvdJojygtyru1sA5XOqwxreocY8Qgdtnm_5KiCtBGbNFDbOH_ar32ondOzbV_BmVBxf8a2iS5YtdOtgRkLl1sK67UAspqcXTImCJrGL0nmXlHDF75mZf/s1600/P1040213.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529477159513201154" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 240px; height: 320px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfcWU6B3QLqN5obWW3oQJfSkGbdvdJojygtyru1sA5XOqwxreocY8Qgdtnm_5KiCtBGbNFDbOH_ar32ondOzbV_BmVBxf8a2iS5YtdOtgRkLl1sK67UAspqcXTImCJrGL0nmXlHDF75mZf/s320/P1040213.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hC2uYmxO4r82HU8P4HASGamaNvVLT9h5-HlP8yk0zF8Xolfq6IYQQF8XoAHJXVvbnu764Q0vNhYG_yi8rwbqXUJhOg4vLMxNSnvvWh4Us7TIHwYsmHo16r7rDHqN7dc8v3OQVarIIC4M/s1600/P1040191.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529477018820375522" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 240px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hC2uYmxO4r82HU8P4HASGamaNvVLT9h5-HlP8yk0zF8Xolfq6IYQQF8XoAHJXVvbnu764Q0vNhYG_yi8rwbqXUJhOg4vLMxNSnvvWh4Us7TIHwYsmHo16r7rDHqN7dc8v3OQVarIIC4M/s320/P1040191.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div>Measuring for shoe size the traditional way..... and delivering sought after school bags, dictionaries among other resources from Canadian donors! What a pleasure it was for Sasha and me. Thanks to all! </div><br /><br /><br /><div>This 2010 school year, which started in January, has again been a successful experience of belonging and advancement for 65 Tanzanian students in the Kilema District, Kilimanjaro. We've recently completed some of the final disbursements and so thank you to all the contributors and sponsors, past and present, of our Kilema Support Fund Tuitions Project. Affiliated with CACHA- Canadian African Community Health Alliance, our Ottawa NGO (cacha.ca), we have been able to sponsor school-age orphan or otherwise vulnerable children ( OVC) in the villages surrounding Kilema Hospital, helping them continue their studies in primary, secondary school and vocational training. We have provided tuitions, supplies and support to these children for the last 3 years, since January 2008, and are looking forward to returning again for the students as well as to greet friends and colleagues who helped us feel at home during our Tanzanian sabbatical in 2007/08. Depending who picks the long straw, it could be Eva or Lockie who come along to help out! </div><br />The UN Millennium Development Goals Report states recently that 69 million school-age children worldwide are not in school and about half or 31 million reside in sub-Saharan Africa. Tanzania has had significant momentum when it comes to making improvements in education first by abolishing primary school fees (though not food, supplies or uniform costs) which produced a surge in enrolment and lead to increases in classroom construction and teacher training. Between 2002 and 2006 54,000 classrooms were built and 18,000 additional teachers trained. But in reality costs still exist for primary education amounting to nearly Can.$40 per year and all secondary education is fee based both in government and private schools. Average cost for a secondary tuition is $190 per year. Recent UN statistics indicate 88% of the population is living on $1.25 per day and there lies the challenge especially for widowed, elderly or sick guardians of one or more children.<br /><br /><br /><div>This year KSF provided tuition for 65 children, 34 girls and 31 boys, eleven of whom are new primary school referrals from neighbouring Sembeti village and referred to KSF tuition program by Matthew Tem, who chairs the districts' Home Based Care volunteers. The local Chagga tribal group encourages both girls and boys to pursue education so our funding supports an identified priority within families and the local community. KSF also provided logistics and coordinated school support and fee payments for 3 students, Franki Mbuya, Lilian Mosha and Elinora Kway on behalf of other Canadian donors, past volunteers to Kilema. </div><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>Fundraising toward the 2010 school year costs totaled Can$16,808. </div><br /><div>Total expenditures for 2010 were Can$11,213 (TZS$13,792,000). </div><br /><div>Tuition alone for the 65 students cost Can$10,267 (TZS$12,629,500). </div><br /><div>Beyond tuition we provided 200 counterbooks(hardcover notebooks), exam fees, uniforms, shoes, field trips, practicum costs, graduation fees, pocket money and repairs to Deo Mkundi's prosthetic leg which accounted for the difference. </div><br /><div>Remaining funds brought forward for 2011 are Can$5,595.31.<br /></div><br /><div>For a complete summary of expenditures please contact Cacha <a href="http://www.cacha.ca/">http://www.cacha.ca/</a> or myself <a href="mailto:sjmalahoff@hotmail.com">sjmalahoff@hotmail.com</a>. </div><br /><div><br />So lets introduce you to the students, their current school and this years school fee covered by KSF Tuitions Project. Fees are expressed in Tanzanian shillings and Canadian dollars at an exchange rate of so $1Can= $1,230. Tanz. shilling. Standards ( s1-s7 ) reflect primary grades. F1,f2, f3 f4 are the basic secondary levels and students must pass exams to continue to the next level. Some wonderful names ....like Epiphania and Goodluck!<br /></div><br /><div><strong>2010 Student List___________________________$TZS/CAN<br /></strong>Ambrose Tesha- m / Mandaka Vocational 3rd yr construction/326,000/$ 265<br />Zenais Alyce- f /Mandaka Vocation 3yr electricity/326,000/$265<br />Jenifer Mahenge -f/Transfer- Olaleni to Kili Vocational 1styr/521,000/$423<br />Anna Cristoph-f/Olaleni Sec. School - grad/waiting nursing training/0<br />Margareth Mboya-f/Mrereni Sec. School - f4 C-B student/145,000/$118<br />Agatha S. Masaro-f/Mrereni Sec. School - f3 average/305,000/$247<br />Joseph Living -m/Lombeta Sec. School -f3 average/500,000/$407<br />Maximilian J. Raziki-m/St. James Seminary- f4 excel. A's /478,000/$389<br />Stephen J Lyimo-m/Kisomachi Sec.School -f4 excel. B's/740,000 /$601 </div><br /><div><br />Gasto Lyimo-m/Ifati Sec. School -f3 average/95,000/$77<br />Elizabeth R. Lyimo -f/ Ifati Sec. School -f3 ave-poor /95,000<br />Christopher F. Tairo-m/Ifati Sec. School -f3 good 2nd standing/95,000<br />Stella Mrema-f/Ifati Sec. School -f3 average 8th standing/95,000</div><br /><div>Violet P Kessy-f/Ifati Sec. School -f3 good 6th standing/95,000<br />Doreen T. Lyimo-f/Ifati Sec. School -f3 average- lives in bar/95,000<br />Jackline P Mosha-f/Ifati Sec. School -f3 good 1st standing/95,000<br />Emmanuel V. Mosh-m/Ifati Sec. School - f4 poor/142,000/$115<br />Emmanuel E.Mosha-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 poor/142,000<br />Dismass J Kessy-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 average/142,000 </div><br /><div><br />Gisela J. Shayo-f/Ifati Sec. School -f4 average/142,000<br />Fides J Mlay-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 ave-poor/142,000<br />Jackson L Rimoy-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 good student/142,000<br />Innocent M Temu-m/Ifati Sec.School -f4 ave-poor/142,000<br />Godfrey L Nguma-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 good student C/142,000<br />Pauli R Mamboya-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 average/142,500<br />Beatrice v. Shirima-f/Ifati Sec. School -f4 average/142,000<br />Jonas A Ngowi-m/Ifati Sec. School -f4 good student C/142,000<br />Flora J Mowo-f/Rukima Sec. School f4 good student B/137,000 /$111<br />Glory A. Kessy-f/Rukima Sec. School f4 good C/137,000</div><br /><div><br />Mary J Morewa-f/Rukima Sec. School f4 average/137,000<br />Diego M. Mowo-m/Rukima Sec. School f4 poor student/137,000<br />Anthony B. Mosha-m/Rukima Sec. School f4 good student/137,000</div><br /><div>Epiphania M Temu-f/Rukima Sec. School f3 -good/90,000/$73<br />Glory J Mlay-f/Rukima Sec. School f3 average to poor/90,000<br />Andrea F Mosha-m/Rukima Sec. School f3 average/90,000<br />Idda N. Mashina-f/Rukima Sec. School f3 good student C/90,000<br />Josephina L. Mosha-f/ Rukima Sec. School f4 average/137,000/$111<br />Beatus L Kessy -m/Rukima Sec. School f4- poor/137,000/$111<br />Augustina Mlay-f/Rukima Sec. School f3 -good student/90,000 </div><br /><div><br />Wilfrida J Lyamuya-f/Rukima Sec. School incom. left school to work/ 0<br />Beatrice Msoma-f/Transferred to Lombeta Sch./166,500/$134<br />Eugen Sprian Mosha-m/Kilimani Sec. School f4 C-B's 10th place/122,000/$99<br />Eric Minde -m/Kilimani Sec. School f3 - C- D/95,000/$77<br />Samuel Shayo-m/Kisaluni Sec. School f2- B student/155,000/$126<br />Nickson C. Moshi -m/Veta Moshi Tech/civil drafting/good/234,000/$190<br />Gloria Mathias Njau-f/Transfer to priv. School f1/300,000/$243<br />Daudi J Lyimo -m/Makomu Sec. School/125,000/$102<br />Erika B. Kessy-f/Ifati Sec. School f2 poor performance/115,000/$93<br />Tumiani Shayo-m/Mandaka Voc. Sch. 2nd yr electricity/good/451,000/$367</div><br /><div><br />Happy G. Kavishe-f/Lombeta Sec. school f2 -average/320,000/$260<br />Oliva Stansilaus Urio -f/Mrike Sec. School funds not available on admiss/0<br />Hefisiba Rampion Mosha/Hospitality Program Moshi incom dismissed/0<br />Deo Honest Kundi-m/Pakula Sec. School f1-bright/amputee /159,000/$129<br />Raziki Patrick Kulaya-m/Lombeta Sec. School f1/ave.-poor/410,000/$333<br />Lilian Mosha-f/Olaleni Sec. School f4 -above average/781,000/$634<br />Elinora C. Kway-f/Olaleni Sec. School f3- excellent "1st girl"/724,000/$588<br />Franki Mbuya-m/Arusha Tech Sch. disabled/ ill- left school/972,000/$790</div><br /><div><br />Emmanuel C. Lyimo-m/Kirefure Sch standard 6(grade6)/39,000/$32<br />Ester G. Lyamuya-f/Kirefure School st. 5/39,000<br />Goodluck A Kimaro-m/ Kirefure School st. 5/39,000<br />Elidaima G Tarimu-f/Kirefure School st. 7/39,000<br />Germine Kipouola-f/Kilrefure School st. 6/39,000<br />Elizabeth F Shirima-f/Sembeti primary /39,000<br />Neema S Mteena-f/Sembeti primary School /39,000<br />Lucina V. Mshanga-f/Sembeti primary School/39,000<br />Glory F Nyange-f/Sembeti primary School/ 39,000<br />Selina V Mshanga-f/Sembeti primary School/22,000/$17</div><br /><div>Daniel V Mshanga-m/Sembeti primary School /22,000<br />Victoria F Temu-f/F1/127,000<br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div>Exciting are the vocational students who requested to continue a further two years of study in construction and electricity, coming into their final of 4 years in 2011. Students like Maximilian Raziki and Stephen Lyimo are among the top students and will likely succeed in passing Form 4 exams and proceeding to 5 and 6 and university/training thereafter. Student loans and scholarships are sometimes available from the Tanzanian government for academic excellence and we are beginning to look at helping kids with these options. Ana Cristoph is interested in entering nursing school at Kibosho Hospital in the nearest town and we wait to hear of her acceptance. We have many children completing Form 4 this year who will need to succeed in exams to continue to Form 5. For some children Form 4 may be the end of their secondary experience and some may consider vocational options. We await results. </div><br /><div><br /></div><br /><div>Reflecting recently on the critical need for parental oversight regarding homework, assignments and study habits with my own children made clearer the challenge of assisting orphan and vulnerable children to succeed in school . Without parents to support, encourage and often insist on a certain academic output orphans are at a disadvantage. Caregivers who are elderly or have never been to school or who are occupied by the demands of subsistence farming are not well positioned to help students who may live with them. The persistent problem of proximity to school and the time spent walking to and fro and after school chores continue to be the most common reasons for children to request a boarding option which is known to produce better outcomes but is more costly. This year the Kilema orphan program provided coaching and a tutoring allowance, about $5 dollars per child to respond to this problem so we'll evaluate those outcomes. Despite challenges most of the children are moving on year to year average or better.<br /></div><br /><div>Thanks to friends, family, the Coolaid Health Center Community and my Harling Point neighbourhood for their great support financial and otherwise; $400 of empty bottles collected by the happiest recyclers alive, junior lemonade entrepreneurs refined their quality control and donated the profits. White collared shirts, black shoes, school supplies, dictionaries, atlases and school bags arrived at the door and remain some of the most incredibly useful items to transport in our 200kg checked baggage limit. I even thank Horizon /Delta air that allowed me to fly a baby jogger to Tanzania knowing full well I was travelling with no toddler but a strapping Sasha Fraser! The jogger has been an excellent vehicle for a local widow,Adela Marsi, to transport her disabled daughter on rough and wheelchair inaccessible footpaths. Thank you also to St. Pat's school which has donated white shirts, black shoes and school uniforms for two years running. Thank you everyone!<br /></div><br /><div>Please enjoy some images from this Tanzanian visit 2010 at:<a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/Tanzanian2010visit">http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/Tanzanian2010visit</a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-8727499462975976332010-02-02T07:48:00.000-08:002010-02-05T02:13:34.417-08:00Yes and No<p>Uncanny coincidences are quite common in Tanzania. Say, when you think of someone or you really need to see someone and no sooner that happens than they walkup the footpath, in the door or you receive a text from them. A few years ago the Kilema OVC program had a young girl, HIV poitive and in needed of a CD4 count, who we hadn't seen for a long time. While I stood outside the OVC program door consulting with another worker about how to reach this girl, she walked up the path toward us. This happens so often that I tend to think there is something more at play, a sixth sense developed over thousands of years or at least in the last 1oo where communications have been difficult. Some special radar has developed. According to Mama Nyaki the cell phone has been the greatest thing to hit Africa ever, a truly useful technology Africans who love to keep in touch and communicate even intuitively. Before it would take letters weeks to arrive just to the next district or your children would be sent over the hill to the next village with a message. Mama Nyaki rolls her eyes remembering the way it was before. But even she and Ireni says these coincidences, chance meetings, parallel thoughts happen. </p><p> I am awestruck when they occur as they did in the last week. No sooner had I texted St. James Seminary to urge a student to present to Kilema Hospital with his results than his mother, a tall strong woman , a PLHA or person living with HIV/AIDS, walked into the OVC office with her sons results. As expected they are exceptional, A's and B's mostly and he is entering Form 4 this year at one of the best schools in the district. Even with these grades he is in 15th position in a class of exceptional students. A few days later I just finished writing the name and results (poor) for a boy whose home I have been to, Diego Mowo of Ruwa village, when his mother walked in the door to greet me. Unfortunately for her, my news was not great. Diego achieved a 7% on his Form 3 national exam, an F, though his mother says he was sick with malaria while sitting the exam. Last year he had 23% . I told her that Diego would not receive funding next year if if he was not able to pass. In fact, no student is able to continue school without passing Form 4. The headmaster of Rukima says that he is very shy with the teachers, that is is good with manual tasks though not academically. Two other girls have failed as well and they have received the same message from me. The headmaster says one of them is often emotionally upset and both are orphan. While most of the students have proceeded well enough through last year it has felt like a week of no's for some.</p><p> </p><p> Here typically a C is considered good and D is a pass. In general about 5% of my sponsored students are producing A's and B's with the majority producing C or D averages. The Rotarians are sponoring a bursary program which schools about 100 students at nearby Kisaluni school and they are finding the same. So in the midst of limit setting based on results one is forced to look at the benefits of continuing to sponor children that by N. American standards are performing poorly. While I have said that funders will not sponor F's and have purposely lit fires under certain students, I realize that comparisons to N. America cannot be made. The experience is no way similar and if you are only looking for A's you will have very few children to sponor. Rukima School is missing 2 teachers, Ifati 1 teacher, and many teachers are unprepared or insufficiently schooled. Children are often away from school for sickness or to help if others are sick. Classroom size is formally set at about 40 but I have often seen 80 to 100. Students may have had a very uneven trajectory of education if family was not able to pay fees one year to the next. Books are unavailable.... So many challenges. </p><p>Headmasters and members of the larger community never seem too stern in these evaluations and an understanding of the harshness of life is inherent when they talk. They try against odds to see children through year to year aware that the benefits of membership in school far outweigh the alternatives; ignorance and the perils of the street. Children who have experienced school are taught self respect, are trained to pursue learning and bettering themselves, they are relatively well dressed, well socialized and fed. For all those good reasons to support education, still I have had to set limits this year. Jenifer Mehenge did not pass at Olaleni school so we arranged to transfer her to vocational boarding school ( she had been living with her grandmother and four other children and the house is in very poor condition). She has been told that she will recieve no further funding if she does not pass and will have to return to the OVC office the mattress, blanket, sheets and pillow on loan to her. Harsh. I sincerely hope she makes it.</p><p>In the rush of finishing up work at Kilema hospital, banking and transfers of school fee receipts back to the schools, three home visits with Exupery Mosha in Mauwa village and a final send off from Mama's Nyaki, Kessy and Mosha up in the hills at a gorgeous convent, it was a busy week on local transportation. Sasha and I had plans to make it to the coast, Ushongo, for a few days of tropical paradise and could hire a car for US$ 300 or just spend 8 hours on the Tanga Express and Pangani dalla dalla instead. So again, yes or no?</p><p>Local transport is not for the faint of heart and is quite a spiritual experience. I feel closer to God, in fact any God, the more I ride. Passing a mosque seems a welcome sight, a good omen. Churches, the same. If school children get on I feel calmer as though nothing could come in the way of such innocence. Just when the tension on yesterday's bus was rising in relation to the speed and rattle of windows and seats, a young salesman got up in his freshly laundered shirt and tie to sell toothpaste and face cream and his smile was so calm and soothing I couldnt resist. Next to me the men were chewing some green leafed herb and earlier the Maasai untwisted the top of a well worn container to pour out brown dust, a pinch of which he placed on his tongue. Sasha has hung his head out the window since our departure and has watched the strange world go by, no hint of boredom and no complaint of discomfort. Very similar to all the other passengers who never seem to complain.</p><p>Riding the dalla dalla too is living as close to Tanzanians as possible and they welcome you to share their experience. To return to meet the Mamas for lunch at the conventlast Saturday I caught a dalla dalla with little time to spare. Binti(daughter) next to me had her head dozing on my shoulder before long and the box of the woman facing me rested on my knees as well so I had the perfect place to rest my elbow, thus chin. I contentedly remember thinking that dalla dalla's really do travel on time just as the tire blew and we rolled to the shoulder. Everyone on board was suspended, motionless waiting to know what would happen to them. Not a murmur or a movement until the rear was raised by the jack and then a clicking of tongues. Within 10 minutes we are heaved off the jack and on our way grateful it was only the tire and not the motor. Next to me an elder gentleman strikes up conversation....he trained in England in mechanical engineering but didnt stay "for I had a great love of my mother so I returned to Tanzania". Wonderful moments.</p><p>Yesterday morning in the dalla dalla the squeeze was on and the insights and questions that are provoked by such close quarters always keep me absorbed. Is this veiled woman really going to sit on my lap or does it just seem that way? Where is my left foot or other distal parts? Are those her own braids or is that sisal extensions? How does he keep his shirt so pressed? Whose knees are in my back? Look at all thes heads so closely shaven. I dont think he'll mind if I lean more heavily his way. I dont like that side to side tipping feeling.... as the dalla pulls off the road to pick up more passengers, for there is no limit on a dalla. But all in all we have travelled well.</p><p>Today is a prep day for the flight home tonight. We've had a great trip and look forward to seeing everyone soon. Tutaonana( see you soon)!</p><p>Steph and Sasha</p>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-21722363975045390762010-01-24T07:34:00.001-08:002010-01-25T04:53:11.668-08:00Water BuffaloA busy week of school visits with the names of Olaleni, Mandaka, Mrereni, Ifati, Rukima and Lombeta, to review the progress and in some cases challenges of various students. Margareth Mboya from Mandaka village is doingvery well despite finding herself in a class of 60 students at Mrereni school and when we visit she is wearing the donated shoes and backpack I gave her that morning.She has passed with C's and B's which is better than many and Tanzania has seen test scores drop across the country this last year. Not enough well trained teachers and classroom size as well as demands of family and work outside of school. Jenipher Mehenge failed his year with a 29% average and Augustine tells me she lives with five others in a dilapidated hut with no windows or doors. Olaleni will not allow her to continue so we need to figure out where to send her as she really wishes to continue to try and learn. Vocational training likely though the headmaster at he vocational school complains that too many consider it a second choice but he and Tanzania need the best brains to create a competetive tech and trades sector. Sephen Lyimo is desperate for me to allow him to board so he doesnt have to walk so far and lose study time to getting feed for the cows or other chores. So individual needs assessed.<br /><br /> After the week filled with interviews, anxious students and parents and the collection of impossibly complicated fee forms it was time to hit the banks. It was hectic last Friday in banks and busy markets, 'to do' list in hand and racing against time to get as many school fee payments made as possible so I dont get behind. Our first stop was to a newly opened CRDB in Marangu, a sparkling new edifice in the middle of banana trees and the general rubble of Marangu Mtoni with Sr. Clarissa the head of Kilema hospital, Ireni and Sunday , who work the orphan program. At CDRB the floors are marble, the workmanship excellent, the glass polished and the place generally empty. Locals began to trickle in and everyone whispered as if in church, in awe of the gleam. To remove 400,000 shilling of your own money at the instabank it costs 5,000 shilling. The banks appear to be doing well with those that have money. <br />After Marangu we dropped Sr. Clarissa back to Kilema and bumped down the mountain to Moshi to hit further banks. Each school has an account at one of a variety of banks and school fee payments are made into the child's name at the correct branch. The receipts are then returned directly to the school or to the student to carry to schools farther off and confirm enrollment. By the end of Friday I had completed 1/3 of deposits and with no tales of drama to tell as in other years.<br /><br />Saturday started with dash through the gauntlet of touts/hustlers at the bus station to catch a local bus to Usa River near Arusha, with the plan of visiting tiny Arush National Park, nestled between Mt. Meru and Kilimanjaro. Travelling with another young Canadian, Sarah who works at Kilema Hospital, we got as far as Usa River before the details of our plan became sketchy. How to get the remaining 20 Km up to the park. Young fellows on piki piki's ( motorbikes) coaxed us to ride with them, 2 on one and 1 on the other bike. Sasha was the voice of reason and resolutely refused while Sarah and I considered the option. Twenty miles of dusty road ahead in a taxi had us shaking our heads and Sasha got his first (of now many)10 points for good decision-making. We arrived to retro Momella Lodge, site of John Wayne's movie Hatari and little has changed since then. The sincerity of the welcome and the location between spectacular mountains made up for a sense of decay in the structures. A walking safari to within 50 feet of a herd of water buffalo had Mama quaking though our armed guide Paolo shrugged. " It is the solitary buffalo like the one over there that you have to worry about", as he pulled the kalashnikov off his shoulder and readied it. Later that night we were awaken in our cabin by clatter of hooves and a tearingof grass. Two mighty buffalo outside the window and we lay in the darkness listening to them grazing and brushing up against trees. Animals come right onto the grounds and the next morning we walked out toward acacia trees where 6 giraffe were at work for tender shoots between the thorns and zebras grazing. Exilarating to be in the presence of animalsh with ones own feet in the deep grass.<br />We were a tight fit on the bus ride home from Arusha on Sunday, locals dozing next to us, kids sneaking glances, fabulous headdresses on stunning women, Christian, Muslim, Maasai the wonderful Tanzanian mix. With the dry air Sasha's nose began to bleed and being on a distant corner I could only rip newspaper and hand to hand it was passed over head to him. Then I saw a young woman mop Sasha's bloody face with her own damp handkerchief, and another Mama called out the window for a seller to bring her a cold bottle of water and passed it along to Sasha, calling out instructions to him. All the passengers clucked and watched over him til the bleeding stopped. So it'is in this way that Tanzanians takes care of us. <br /><br />Tutaonana baaadye(see you later)na Asante Sana<br />Stephanie and Sasha<br />Sorry pictures a bit difficult to send will create an album if I can<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />rFraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-15881812760927839952010-01-22T07:11:00.000-08:002010-01-22T08:37:20.315-08:00Tanzy Back to School ReportOf course 10 days ago our arrival to Kili International, with that sensaton of warm air infusing the cabin of the plane, seems a long time ago now. Sasha and I both noted how dark the landscape was as we circled and on landing looked out the window opposite of the terminal to the vast African darkness. Amsterdam had been lit up like a cake and that difference is what makes working here so endlessly fascinating...how to advance objectives in the face of failing infrastructure. The days so far in Tanzania are full and each one organized to get as much done in the short time we have. I learned again how to operate my cell phone, a critical work tool here which allowed me to communicate and plan ahead people while stuck in the back of the jeep. The mind is kept nimble thinking of ways to problem solve using the cell and I cant imagine how impossible it must have been before. The locals have helped retrieve my chip with all my contacts from the bottom of a garbage pail and numerous other things.<br />Swahili too is coming back slowly and thanks to a prescribed pingpong of greetings I am able to practise again and again once familiar phrases. Everyday more comes back to me though Emelianna the cook says Sasha cannot speak at all as if I have failed as a mother. But more patient and jovial people wouild be hard to find and they coax us along like children. It is wonderful to be back into the fold of community and friend and colleagues at Kilema hospital.<br />At my first morning report the shy nurses recite a summary of the night shift as usual. Sister asks if there was any problem in the night and the shy nurses say as they say every morning that"there were no problem in the night" and there is a pregnant pause for "admissions, suggestions, clarifications" where everyone, doctors and nurses, remain mute. But at the end of morning report I have a chance to say greetings to everyone and see some great smiles in the group. When its all over everyone relaxes and the real greetings begin... truly heart warming. Everyone asking after Dr. Chris, Lockie and Eva, Fiona, Rita and the girls who were here last year. They remember everybody. So Mama Nyaki is fine as is Mama Kessy and Sr. Mary Krista who has a great laugh. Dr. Mbando is on call and so tired one night he sleeps through the church music playing all night. Of course souind travels and the church bells still ring off at 5:30 then again at 6. Dr Julius is looking crisp and smart as usual......<br />The short rains have come so the landscape is green and quite lush, different from the deep dust this time last year. Up at Kilema the temperate is cooler and the breeze starts up at about 5pm causing all the shutters to bang on our house. The trees sway and birds dart and if this convinces anyone that they might like to visit Tanzania, maybe teach English or set up computers it is always immediately clear that that would be a good thing. Especially English.<br /><br />Jolly Rotarians are here finishing a classroom building project at Kilema Primary school and their contribution to the infrastructure in this district is truly remarkable when you count it up. Their aim this year is to nurture the community in prioritizing their own projects and future plans and amazingly 20 people from the larger community have banded together to start a new Rotary group at Kilema which will open up lots of new links with other groups globally. There is much discussion, sharing of information, filling in the blanks and together we create a composite of whats happened and what are the issues at Kilema in the last 11 months. The Rotarians have added so much to my experience here and even Sasha says" Boy , are they funny!" And they like their Safari beer baridi cold!<br /><br />My work arranging school fees and supplies for 55 children started with a bang this past Monday largely due to Sunday's advertising my arrival. I called or met with nearly ever contact and many students themseves and began planning for the school year ahead. It is hard to describe how central schooling is to children absolutely all encompassing. I'm working with Ireni and Sunday Shalala in the OVC( orphan and vulnerable children) office and they are fabulous, listening, counselling, receiving a seeming endless line of children in need. They admit they are stressed because there are no more resources but here people will still let you speak to your needs though they have nothing to help you. Ireni and Sunday oversee 210 children in the program and I carry 55 and while that is significant and welcome it still seems a drop in the bucket. Dilemma after dilemma but these two can still burst into laughter and tease often. By day two I am saying" no " to new requests quite flatly trying not to feel overwhelmed.But the community here is grateful and the children registered to us show much less stress. I am so grateful to all my donors of money and materials, bags, shirts, shoes and dresses who have allowed me to offer so much to children here. There is great pleasure on this side when shoes fit. All the small dictionaries have been given out to Margareth, Deo and few others. The bags are a hit. Dresses might be given out discretely at Easter so as not to cause a riot- difficult to distribute at times. They talk and 50 more will come! Thank you everyone though, for all your warm feelings and generosity!<br /> Sasha has been intrepid and after an initial adjustment period has fallen into the greetings and reunions with old friends in a familiar way. He wiped out on the soccer pitch and has a abrasion filled with red clay currently trying to heal on his back. He has compared muscle mass with friend Godfrey and has lead Rotarians out of nearby Mkyashi village in the dark! Sorry Grandma! Sunday has been wonderful to Sasha and I'm trying to get a photo of the two fellows weightlifting at Sunday's house. The Rotarians are trying inspire Sasha to write a book,' Travels with my Mother' . And I think Emeliana is beginning to forgive him for forgetting his Swahili. He is a fine fellow and I'm very proud of him.<br />Will report more next week. Internet is hopeless at Kilema but I relish the texts from Chris and family and the call this morning from my book club friends. Thank you.Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-63493326479116716312009-07-15T22:48:00.000-07:002009-11-21T09:03:39.869-08:00Tanzania: Kilema Support Fund Tuitions Project Update<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPc5oIeOjac7F_8kqRwlywHWaufOxv1F0BIUm_Y1bjla_CMlfesNNxa7mwEOKHEC-OdsRjdH3HmaayxdkHb8XTzyUm1w0F6e5zqxjK4MAecwEvVH3CDdSiCvw2M-Vct5ytKkSWt4PzPbi/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+128.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406341291171040402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 346px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 254px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPc5oIeOjac7F_8kqRwlywHWaufOxv1F0BIUm_Y1bjla_CMlfesNNxa7mwEOKHEC-OdsRjdH3HmaayxdkHb8XTzyUm1w0F6e5zqxjK4MAecwEvVH3CDdSiCvw2M-Vct5ytKkSWt4PzPbi/s320/tanzania+steph+and+eva+128.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdB5T1Mfub8pqd_IDaaBMSw_WujHx8-xRlrij-E48zPAQLzVyASMx0ND3BSeTJ0d7OanuaOGK3zkAG-r-izWPayfRUi45s1zhC1dVOKeuZklS-4PdfvJGhngRksh1T8dFj94eLA-ZeGZds/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+826.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406343931004515266" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 354px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 236px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdB5T1Mfub8pqd_IDaaBMSw_WujHx8-xRlrij-E48zPAQLzVyASMx0ND3BSeTJ0d7OanuaOGK3zkAG-r-izWPayfRUi45s1zhC1dVOKeuZklS-4PdfvJGhngRksh1T8dFj94eLA-ZeGZds/s320/tanzania+steph+and+eva+826.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0mxHQC6YXAfKT4U9_1OV_iBUKhJmHFojmRNOFMud6s3c2aBFqBXM5u0PaqU3KbAl1cBGpWiPpPgtj0IkGpxf5R3iNzXOobH9DcoP-l5e5GI7c74eM4BSC4zmh3JSyU4Ort9YDvQNA3iA/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+363.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406344238033844178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0mxHQC6YXAfKT4U9_1OV_iBUKhJmHFojmRNOFMud6s3c2aBFqBXM5u0PaqU3KbAl1cBGpWiPpPgtj0IkGpxf5R3iNzXOobH9DcoP-l5e5GI7c74eM4BSC4zmh3JSyU4Ort9YDvQNA3iA/s320/tanzania+steph+and+eva+363.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPeddl_8SdPdVqCvEXia-AkRpWIV6yZwOHjDnasspcCfbJyNtTEtiKOcCnPH9oRoF8CAmLdwBcMGAMEWCzLCrY_CsKpZGDbJnT9h-iCbn4JGFZRE3yORwQLe2uHhYOdvu6Cht4FgVC5VQ/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+878.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406343366017021938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPeddl_8SdPdVqCvEXia-AkRpWIV6yZwOHjDnasspcCfbJyNtTEtiKOcCnPH9oRoF8CAmLdwBcMGAMEWCzLCrY_CsKpZGDbJnT9h-iCbn4JGFZRE3yORwQLe2uHhYOdvu6Cht4FgVC5VQ/s320/tanzania+steph+and+eva+878.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2QyH24BWQ808kt9ytOXiijIuYxcV6dgrWUbY8JR1Fnz7ZxL63RQnT2c-xMIGpIPGArbFw6CGAVzmBDhMY7SVsUN-ebpdkZ2atUbn0HQo2Y-ivMSKjO2f7_xGfUmxO8S6N4lA3B0vr7u1/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+354.JPG"></a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2QyH24BWQ808kt9ytOXiijIuYxcV6dgrWUbY8JR1Fnz7ZxL63RQnT2c-xMIGpIPGArbFw6CGAVzmBDhMY7SVsUN-ebpdkZ2atUbn0HQo2Y-ivMSKjO2f7_xGfUmxO8S6N4lA3B0vr7u1/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+354.JPG"></a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2QyH24BWQ808kt9ytOXiijIuYxcV6dgrWUbY8JR1Fnz7ZxL63RQnT2c-xMIGpIPGArbFw6CGAVzmBDhMY7SVsUN-ebpdkZ2atUbn0HQo2Y-ivMSKjO2f7_xGfUmxO8S6N4lA3B0vr7u1/s1600/tanzania+steph+and+eva+354.JPG"></a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>In the midst of Canada’s west coast deluge it’s hard to picture Tanzanian life across the world where the dry season has taken hold. Grazing animals wander through the reminants of corn and millet fields and clusters of students in blue, green and sienna coloured uniforms, some a little tattered, pass along dusty roads to school. Cyclical patterns of Tanzanian life repeat whether we are talking about the dry or wet seasons or life at school, in ways similar to Canada. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>The school year, though, for Tanzanian students starts January, with the usual intensity of activity around securing a place in primary or secondary school and the required uniform, supplies, books, food and cook fees. The school year completes as December nears and all minds are on passing exams for entry into the next level. Work at Kilema, Kilimanjaro, with Canadian NGO CACHA( Canadian African Community Health Alliance) and subsequent visits have brought us together with many students with the common goal of keeping them in school. We’ve had an wonderful year of sponsorships so after a bit of background let us update you on what has happened in 2009. </div><br /><div><br />Disparities between Canada and Tanzania exist on many fronts with Canada fourth this year on the UN Human Development Index and Tanzania 151th out of 200, just below Haiti and Sudan. Most waking hours in Tanzania are organized to secure the most primary of needs. Food is first because if you can’t grow it you must buy it. Next is clean water, often collected by students before school, heavy plastic yellow drums strapped boldly to their bicycles. The centrality of school and the education of children is the next priority and is on the mind of every child, parent, grandparent or caregiver as a means to redefine a child’s and family’s future. There are few extracurricular activities , leisure pursuits or alternatives to distract families from this goal. Primary school is partly funded by the government but secondary school is not and many educational trajectories are ended after Form 7, the equivalent of Grade 7. The UN has applauded Tanzanian’s efforts at expanding access to education through building schools and training teachers, but funding for secondary education is not in place as in many African countries. </div><br /><div><br />Our work in Tanzania has been to provide secondary or vocational tuition to 52 children, allowing them to proceed with education where they would not otherwise. These children were initially referred to us through local nurses, like Mama Kessy, doctors, community surveillance workers called HBC’s and community leaders like Exupery Mosha of North Kilema, who approached us regarding many children at Rukima and Ifati schools unable to pay their tuitions and facing dismissal. His list was long but we were able to help 30 children stay enrolled, allowing them schooling, a protein rich midday meal and a sense of belonging to a group pursuing their future. Further referrals of 22 children brought the total to 52 children in school in 2008 with the help of Canadian contributions totalling $Can 11,084.<br /><br />In June 08 we detoured from school funding slightly to cover the cost for a new prosthetic leg for a bright, young boy named Deo ,who some may remember from an earlier blog in 2008 and who we spent much time with in Tanzania. His stump skin reacted badly to the first plastic mouldings made for a prosthetic. I’m happy to report that after some delays ( things do take time in Africa) he finally received his a new leg in the spring, and he can now get himself to school. Thanks to orthopaedic technician, Omar Kinyango, of KCMC hospital in Moshi for his persistence! We’ll try to reunite with Deo for pictures next January. </div><br /><div><br />Especially satisfying was the continued support to students in 2009, again on behalf of many donors. While most of the expenditures were made during our visit January 09, we have continued to meet requests for field trips, a computer course , and graduation fees right up until September30/09. Overall the largest percentage of funding went toward school fees ( 90.6% of expenditures). Often tuition includes uniforms but not always and where the Tuitions Project has paid for fees, families are encouraged to provide for smaller items if possible. In 2009 the average annual tuition cost per child was $192.00, in keeping with previous years. Government schools are less expensive than diocese or private schools. Students like Dismas J. Kessy and Innocent M. Temu, require Can$108 for a year at the government school, Ifati. Ann Cristoph and Jeniphe Mehenge require $447 and $410 respectively at Olaleni, a higher quality Catholic school. I visited directly with 45 of the 52 students we sponsored, receiving grades and exam results, evaluating progress, pondering challenges to learning and facilitating the complicated banking required to pay fees into school accounts. No bank cheque! Makes me very thankful for my banking assistants Fiona , Rita and the girls!</div><br /><div><br />This year we are looking forward to six graduations. Anna and Jeniphe above graduate from Olaleni School. Hephsiba Mosha graduates from a hospitality program in nearby Moshi town. Tumiani Shayo and Ambrose Tesha graduate from Mandaka Vocational School which lies at the base of the south slope of Kilimanjaro. Kilema Hospital is up slope nestle on a mountain ridge. A shy young fellow, Tumiani studied to become a mechanic and Ambrose studied construction. Another shy teenage girl, Zenais Alyce, studied electricity and also graduates this year from Mandaka.</div><br /><div><br />The next steps for these students will be followed with great interest but Tumiani , Anna and Jeniphe and the rest also graduate from the sponsorship of the KSF Tuitions Project. No further new admissions to the program will be made and as students complete studies the size and funding requirements of the program will contract. It is for this reason we elected not to create a separate foundation but will remain as a project under the umbrella of NGO CACHA until students complete. Our affiliation with Cacha on the ground in Tanzania allows us to continue working with the full approval and welcome of the Tanzanian government. This school year we also partnered more directly with Cacha and they agreed to provide tax receipts to donors, money transfers from Canada and help and logistics on the ground in Tanzania. Their help with ground transportation to schools kept our hitchhiking with lorries down to a minimum! Cacha has also asked us if we would coordinate payments for 4 other students this coming year on behalf of other Canadian sponsors in order to streamline the work of field staff in Tanzania to which we have agreed. Those students are Franki Mbuya, Lillian Mosha, Elinora Kway, and Oliva Urio . I’ll say now how very appreciative we are for the support Cacha has given us.<br /><br />So to the financial summary:</div><br /><div><br />Total funds donated to Kilema Support Fund Tuitions Project 2008/2009 (including $695.00 carried over from 2007/2008) : $17, 522. </div><br /><div><br />Total Expenditures in 2009 : $11,055. </div><br /><div><br />Total cost of school fees( 52 students): $10,018 (90.6% of expenditures).</div><br /><div><br />Other school related funding: $1,045.<br />· 208 Counterbooks (hardcover workbooks): $386 (3.5%)<br />· Graduation /food fees: $181 (1.6%)<br />· Field trips : $125 (1%)<br />· Uniforms: $80 (.7%)<br />· Pocket money: $92 (.8%)<br />· Shoes: $77 (.7%)<br />· Computer courses/bank fees/messenger wages/back tuition: $117</div><br /><div><br />Surplus funds from 2009 : $ 6,467</div><br /><div><br />Total donations from 2009/2010: $, 1689</div><br /><div><br />Total available for 2010: $8,156 </div><br /><div><br />Our projected needs for the coming school year are approximately $8000 taking into account children who have completed studies this year so we are well on our way... Thank you donors!<br />Please feel free to email me or Rita Parikh for complete student lists and expense sheets. All donor funds are applied to Tanzanian students. Our own travel and accommodation is self financed and we continue to be pleased to have purpose in visiting Tanzania annually for the next few years. </div><br /><div><br />Previous blogs describe the January 2009 convergence of three mother/daughter pairs in Tanzania for a once in a lifetime African experience. Fiona Manning and daughter Hailey, Rita Parikh and daughter Anjali, and Eva and I all relished our Tanzanian experience, the eternal handshakes, greetings and general comic idiosyncrasies of the developing world. Even yesterday I heard Eva and Hailey describe exacting details of life and food in this far off place. We met students, helped fit uniforms and shoes on many local orphan and vulnerable children, we visited Rukima and Ifati schools, exchange letters from Canadian students and toured the classrooms and kitchen with its woodpile and open fire. Students begged us to leave behind Anjali, Hailey and Eva to attend school! Shirts and shoes were donated by St. Patrick’s School and friends, and beautiful party dresses by local families. School supplies, english dictionaries and wonderful school bags(conference bags!) were all very appreciated!<br /><br />For those of you who haven’t yet seen images of that January trip click <a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/crrfraser/KilemaBackToSchoolJanuary09#">here</a></div><br /><div><br /><br />All the above would never have been possible without the support of a wide community of friends, colleagues and family, both close at hand and in other parts of the world- England ! Chris and I have been deeply grateful for the generous donations of money and other material support by so many people and organizations, not only in the past year, but with our initial departure to Tanzania, a time with many unknowns ahead. Our Victoria and Harling Point friends and neighbours have been particularly generous with large and small donations alike, from all ages. I reflect on the persistence of our young lemonade sellers here and all the encouraging, thirsty buyers who sampled no matter the quality. Folks have been schlepping valuable recyclables, too. There have been large donors whose contributions allowed us to support tuitions but also provide field trips to power plants and parks so Tanzanian students could experience a wider view of their own area of study and country, a rare experience for many of these children. Large and small together, donations have allowed us to continue in January 2010 covering most of the $ 8000 projected needs. Sasha and I look forward to our Tanzanian departure January 12th and ...white collared shirts, blacke shoes, English dictionaries, school supplies, school bags and girls dressesare always welcome! THANK YOU EVERYONE! . </div></div></div></div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-45086075325787732712009-01-27T03:55:00.000-08:002009-01-27T06:28:05.248-08:00Kilema to the CoastJanuary 27/09<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Well let's try this this again. The power just failed in this sweltering Cepac internet office in Muheza and the worst part (almost) was the loss of the ceiling fan! My online luck is famously poor here and I'm always able to bring on power outages just by going logging on! Almost as bad as the Obama inaugural speech when upscale Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort lost power three quarters the way through....resounding groans all around and much shuffling of generator keys!( Obama mania here with lots of enthusiasm posters and printed kanga fabric!)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Have just passed through the town of Muheza, slowed by the heat and humidity which has been building since morning, on the way to this internet office where the heat is magnified and the computers equally slow. We came down from Kilema a few days ago to these coastal lowlands near Tanga to visit with Leah Norgrove and Ambrose Marsh and their wonderful young sons, Griffin and Simon, who have been here since September working/living at this regional hospital providing palliative care services. Walked through the small but busy town with Griff, where he first dropped off his bike at the local fundi (worker) for fixing, navigating the cluster of bikes and rudimentary tools under the sack cloth awning and indicating his needs with confidence. He then lead me on through the chaotic bus station to help sort out our return to Moshi on Thursday and all the while I am thinking what an impressive boy, who like his brother, Simon, has embraced the fascinating ways of life here. The different logic, the faulty infrastructure, the orange seller, the water transporters carrying large yellow drums on the back of bicycles, the blend of frustration and humour when things don't work, the thousands of fruit bats that hang upside down in the trees around their house and the great hugs from African Mamas. When I ask him if he's going to miss it all he says, " Yes."<br /><br /><br />"What are you going to miss the most?" I ask.<br /><br /><br />"Everything," he says.<br /><br /><br />He and Simon remind me of my own Sasha and Lockie who equally seemed to 'get' all the subtlety and richness of the place. To see the enthusiasm of Leah and Ambrose and their energetic immersion in hospital life, I am reminded of my own family here last year and am thrilled to see the Norgrove/ Marsh family thriving in similiar ways.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />We left dear Rita in Moshi just a few days ago and as we sat on the beach just north of the Pangani River yesterday we marvelled at being an Indian Ocean apart now, she and family just arriving in India. Kilema kept her busy with researching funding angles and matching grant opportunitites for Sister Clarissa at Kilema Hospital. Rainer had her doing editing work as well and I think she may have left with more followup work than she bargained for, articles included. We miss Anjali and Rita and wish them well on the next leg of their adventure.<br /><br /><br /><br />Fiona has continued to giggle quietly at all the marvelous chaos and unusualness of life here. She had great days in the hospital on rounds with Dr. Mushi and in CTC with Anna Nyaki, who by the way still has her wonderful laugh and is always thinking of ways to move forward. It is wonderful to see Leah and Fiona reunited here in Muheza, this amazing steamy town full of bustle. Hailey has had her eyes wide open and her radar on full. Bus and dalla dalla rides have been challenging for her and she's been squished along with everyone else, nose in someone or others armpit. Her dreams, like Fiona's, are becoming legendary and give us a great start to the day.<br /><br /><br />Our work at Kilema Hospital took us down to the wire with school visits, school shoes and supply purchases and banking fees down in Moshi town. Last week we all hitched a ride on a dump truck up to Ifati and Rukima Schools, two government schools north of Kilema where on behalf of Canadians we are funding over 30 students. All six of us paid a visit to meet these students, tour the school, receive exam standings and grade averages. Just last week Fiona , Rita and I had counted out stacks of bills at the Nelson Mandela Bank in Moshi to pay for all 30 plus school fees, giggling at the 10,000 shilling notes piling up, counting and recounting and avoiding the clucking of tonges behind us in the lineup! Having done our part there, we now received a brief summary of each student. Also recieved 2 packets of letters from the students , responses to letters we had brought from 2 classes at Margaret Jenkins School! Beautiful penmenship and while the headmasters were shy about the level of English we were amazed at the elegance of it. After taking numerous photographs surrounded by students and many greetings and handshakes we left with two of the students, Idda and Andrea, to visit their homes. Idda lives with father and mother( though my previous information was that she had one parent- this is why you do home visits!). Illness with both parents has made income generating difficult and Idda the youngest of seven children is the only child to go to secondary school due to our school support. Eva , Anjali andHailey had a good look at her bed and eroded mattress and the termite work on the sides of her board house. Andrea lives with his elderly grandmother who is clearly fragile and declared she wasnt sure she would be around to greet us next year if we came! He sleeps in a simple board house while Bibi sleeps in a poor room next to the animals, a cow and two goats. A mattress in pieces and a shamble of a structure. As Fiona says , it is an honour to meet these people,enter homes and see lives. All in all we have covered school fees for over 50 students and before we fly on Friday back to Canada I will have a last run up to Kilema to pick up remaining receipts and say final goodbyes.<br /><br /><br /><br />Our health is well and hopefully will remain so even after our last bus ride up country. There is a certain barreling down the highway that unnerves one. We have been delighting in it all, enjoying every minute and feel satisfied at having completed what we set out to do here.<br /><br />Love to everyone there with special hugs to grandmas and grandpas, husbands, sons, and daughter( Solana).XXX. All friends too! Will send now before its too late!!!Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-61220138420183915682009-01-15T21:21:00.000-08:002009-02-09T12:14:08.414-08:00Kilema ArrivalJanuary 14 /09<br /><br />Since the first morning after our arrival to Tanzania, the miracle of three mothers and three daughters coming together, from Canada and France, to meet in East Africa seemed beyond imagination but here we are. Jetlagged mothers, Fiona ,Rita and I, lolled in our YMCA beds draped with gauzy mosquito netting, catching up on news and savoring our good fortune while Eva, Hailey and Anjali, bolstered by each others presence, took off to explore and find breakfast . Besides feeling truly grateful for friends who would stand by me in the face of inevitable unknowns in Africa, I felt great excitement for the days ahead and the introductions to come. To the beauty, contradictions, realities and struggles of people in a place I have come to love. While the girls watched massive maribu storks take off and land below we, from our top floor window, glanced out at Kilimanjaro in a cloudless sky, jutting out of the earth and towering above us, proof we had arrived.<br /><br />Tanzania is in a lull between the two rainy seasons; the short rains which occur in Nov/ Dec and the long rains which arrive in June and come with a damp chill especially on Kilimanjaro. The short rains appear to have left only a small impact on the land and only on the mountain slopes where a few new brilliant green shoots rise from rust colored soil. But on the dry lowland plains there are few prepared fields and no new crops, only the butts of last years corn harvest grazed on by goats, perhaps a stalk still with a dried ear of corn attached for seed. On the roads there is a layer of fine clay dust inches thick and we have adopted the African way of walking, not on the road but on roadside grass to keep our feet somewhat cleaner. Hailey and I laughed as we washed our feet in the shower the other night and saw a stream of red draining down the hole. Even today at a school welcome ceremony for Rotarians, the young singers and dancers of Mkyashi raised clouds of grit which fell upon a squinting and well-dusted audience.<br /><br />After a three day road trip to see a host of animals in some of northern Tanzania’s greatest natural assets, Tarangire, Manyara and Ngorogoro conservation areas, we finally arrived home to Kilema. To be in Tanzania for one month seems a short time compared to last year but the difference now is that the reunions with friends and colleagues are both intense and quickly intimate. Handshakes, hugs and disclosures about what’s new and what’s the same all come quickly as we pick up where we left off. Many have looked over my shoulder to see if Dr. Chris has come and young Godfrey arrived asking, “Where is Sasha and Lockie”. Hiking up Ngangu Hill, children call and wave to Eva, familiar faces to her from Kitchilioni school. Fiona and Rita, Hailey and Anjali have role played their greetings to be ready for the hospital staff who blend greetings in Swahili with spot quizzes from time to time. The girls have taken our advice and are reliably ready with a “Shikamoo Babu” even if they think it sounds ridiculous. I think they recognize what a gift it is to show respect to elders and many a grandfather ‘babu’ and grandmother ‘bibi’ have beamed with pleasure at their mannered ways.<br /><br />We discover the six of us mamas and bintis (daughters) are excellent travel mates! We have leapt into life at Kilema with gusto. Rita saw her first Cesarean section day one with Fiona in the OR. Fiona sat in with Dr. Saria in the HIV clinic or CTC (counseling and treatment centre) as they call it here because of stigma. The next day she rounded with Dr. Dominique in the hospital and toured the lab with Ida the long suffering lab tech. Rita is sought after by Sr. Clarissa for funding proposals after she confessed her long NGO experience and has had input into the orphan program. We all were on hand for a uniform outfitting day for orphans last Saturday, judging shoe sizes and measuring waists with our hands for some 200 children. The girls are disciplined about their journals and math and recently have been working a medical caravan, counting pills for the dispensary! And we are all eating tons of mangos and thanks to my brother Robin, Christmas cake!<br /><br />On the first day at Kilema hospital Augustine Shayo of Mullo village arrived in that typical African way, on the pathway that is my unfolding day, spontaneously but also intuitively, knowing that we have a great many things to talk about and that I totally need his help. He is as devoted a community HBC (Home Based Care) worker as I’ve ever met, a patient, elderly man with stained teeth, grey hair and thick glasses. He always wears a blue oxford shirt and flip flops and I notice the cracks in his toes and heels are just the same, from traveling many miles on red clay paths visiting the poorer members of his and other villages. After greetings we get quickly down to work.<br /><br />He referred six orphan and vulnerable children my way for school support last year so we huddle and review the children one by one. Ambrose B. Tesha is the first. This is the boy that took the spot at Mandaka Vocational School when young Novati of Masaera died of AIDS last year and I reflect on this as we look at Ambrose’s successful last term. Clearly not academically inclined, his standing is poor in mathematics, english, and geography but in building he shows competency. In block making, brick making, site preparation, bonding blocks and bricks and cement construction he has been successful and so Augustine and I agree Ambrose is in the right place. Young Zenais Aloyce, an orphan who lives with her grandmother, is also doing well studying electricity at vocational school and will continue for another year. She is competent in ‘preparing diagrams and installation of lighting and power’ as well as ‘measuring energy resistance’. Sounds great- what is it? She’s doing well even in math, science and english.<br /><br />But later Augustine breaks the news that Agatha has failed to pass her national exams and cannot proceed at Olaleni School unlike Jenifer Menenge and Anna Cristoph, who having achieved a pass, will be moving ahead into Form II. He recommends that Agatha move to Mrereni Secondary School, a government school which has a program for less academically inclined students and he has already arranged the transfer. So we shuffle through all the students we’ve herded and shepherd some more, recognizing that children without parents are often lacking the guidance that the rest of us take for granted.<br /><br />So it goes, the review of 50 students that were sponsored on behalf of friends and family and community groups in Canada last year. On the Tanzanian side I feel so grateful to have money to help out these students and their caregivers, on behalf of Canadians. I feel thankful when I sit in school offices and watch headmasters calculate fees and debate whether the child really needs another uniform and watch them laboriously fill out the receipts while I wonder at how it can be made to be such a complicated process, paying fees. But when the wind sends the curtains billowing and the warm gust of air reaches me across the cramped room filled with unruly stacks of notebooks and papers, I am in heaven. I hope the headmaster takes his times as I relish the air, the surroundings, the singsong of Swahili, the unusual way the headmaster holds his pencil, the mango trees outside, the children walking past under the window and my dusty feet. As the curtains billow every few minutes I sneak a peak at the blue sky and send text messages to various other headmasters to make arrangements or to others, Fiona and Rita, working the medical caravan in Moshi. Thank you to everyone who contributed to helping these students and who gave me another reason to come here. Asante sana. It is absolutely satisfying to see them doing well and to shepherd those that need it further.<br /><br />Banking in January is a perilous activity in Tanzania. A few days ago I received a texti from Cacha staffer Rainer to come and relieve him in a bank line up at the CRDB branch in Moshi town. He had been at a standstill for an hour, not even through the door, and part of a thread of people across the concourse and down the stairs. “Do you have anything to read?” I asked as I took his place and sized up the line. He handed me a non-fiction analysis of Africa, ‘The Shackled Continent’ and left. Shoulder to shoulder, the smell of sweat, murmurs of frustration, clicking of tongues at the many line hoppers, internal ethical debates about whether or not to line hop as a mzungu ( white person), even the grease smeared glass occupied me for some time. Ironically there is a certificate for ‘Best Bank in Tanzania’ on the wall and while I can’t deny the place is popular the patience of Tanzanians is mind-boggling. How do they do this? I am sandwiched between two mamas, feeling heat front and back like a Boxing Day shopper at Walmart. If you leave a space others milling about will cut through and tug on your clothes and bag. I hear myself murmuring, “the meek will inherit the earth” and wonder how they will actually do it. Tired of waiting, some women sit down legs outstretched in the African way and people walk over them. A man with a bag of bundled cash drops a wad causing a chorus to start up and as he bends to pick up the wad, other stray bills fall out and everyone laughs heartily. As he leaves with his stuffed envelop I wonder how far he’ll get and think he should have stuck at least some in his sock as another man did.<br /><br />At last Rainer comes back and gets into another line up for withdraws at the same time I wait in the school fees line up with babus, mamas, students and nuns. I am seventh in line to the teller and tempers are peaking, eyes daring anyone to jump the line now. Rainer is withdrawing my Tuition Fund money wired by Cacha and just manages to get it out before passing it to me where I deliver it to another teller to deposit it again in the school bank accounts. Ambrose, Zenais, Anna and Jenifer are paid up for another year and I leave the bank after four hours and air out my sweat soaked self.<br /><br />Thank you to everyone again who contributed large and small to the Kilema OVC Tuition fund, who dropped school shirts, shoes, notebooks, pens blankets and beautiful dresses for girls at our doors. Emakulata and Magdelena from Kyou village just received a dress each and their Bibi was thrilled. Thanks also to Rotary Nanimo for contributions to the tuition fund and Rotary Oak Bay for other contributions to local Kilema gardening and vocational projects. The days are full and not many but we are enjoying every one!Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-53915665853598858642008-12-29T22:04:00.000-08:002008-12-29T22:10:09.269-08:00Mothers and Daughters to Kilema<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3JtbMFnWaLZfZHBY024qAQW8nEuD0GCVW4sq3SBte1mP5YrYMB_eJOK7P0rzY_LGxdgEJOBK55_2pMx9F6qQGbNQZt9VXPfMrUc_Pm7I-sPaVTveCpgUaUbv5ibaszhbgmXnTAutA5vm/s1600-h/Winter.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285461158788798018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3JtbMFnWaLZfZHBY024qAQW8nEuD0GCVW4sq3SBte1mP5YrYMB_eJOK7P0rzY_LGxdgEJOBK55_2pMx9F6qQGbNQZt9VXPfMrUc_Pm7I-sPaVTveCpgUaUbv5ibaszhbgmXnTAutA5vm/s320/Winter.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIOCijedvzvIWe1UlwwLqT1NI4E5RnCmq2eaKLQYIYhEi2QgQ9j5FS3VPmd7ohaBWg7HHxGnqfZxKhjquZteu5Flhmp6wwS2iT1PBw5OJE0fXAOuG8rud2WLe5_s9Yosmtu9HHZRs9c6G/s1600-h/Girls.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285461158386641826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIOCijedvzvIWe1UlwwLqT1NI4E5RnCmq2eaKLQYIYhEi2QgQ9j5FS3VPmd7ohaBWg7HHxGnqfZxKhjquZteu5Flhmp6wwS2iT1PBw5OJE0fXAOuG8rud2WLe5_s9Yosmtu9HHZRs9c6G/s320/Girls.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihVFrkgIj1vAygqomGeL9jYUf8VnsUKgDKqfasCWXVvEuakzX0csZuLebhsytad8Ue2ykuotbGP9K-gpYTXcu2TBQrTBKXliaey9ooEFyCGGj1OT41h9S8kyRa0zYUzI9q5wqZBPmTe4vt/s1600-h/Kilema.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285461153380968898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihVFrkgIj1vAygqomGeL9jYUf8VnsUKgDKqfasCWXVvEuakzX0csZuLebhsytad8Ue2ykuotbGP9K-gpYTXcu2TBQrTBKXliaey9ooEFyCGGj1OT41h9S8kyRa0zYUzI9q5wqZBPmTe4vt/s320/Kilema.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5pdp2psRKOa8JJiK4IOMhe3hpo5ifJ5m-ly5VH3Z3Pj6Tz6Mynj3SDnlpEJNmTQEJ4dkkfcNt7nVOowAhgMZEvQjl9hpAzA5ud0_oY3GqSiTXbOJlhNQHe53HDD6sYqee1yuwA_702bC/s1600-h/School+Students.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285461156154153250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5pdp2psRKOa8JJiK4IOMhe3hpo5ifJ5m-ly5VH3Z3Pj6Tz6Mynj3SDnlpEJNmTQEJ4dkkfcNt7nVOowAhgMZEvQjl9hpAzA5ud0_oY3GqSiTXbOJlhNQHe53HDD6sYqee1yuwA_702bC/s320/School+Students.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13CoA2N1TuyF-0Jo6WD0cuuM_S3hA0A9X1qq0PSyY_5jPFhJqCLw4JNvxGWuw6sDw9Hnsl6B4f8XaN0iBa6QTwYk3mPfM3naD0JNss_FVtmnWMtEOdptcFDTbYMT4iieAuTgSDlY5Vm-8/s1600-h/Female+student.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285461143244583410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13CoA2N1TuyF-0Jo6WD0cuuM_S3hA0A9X1qq0PSyY_5jPFhJqCLw4JNvxGWuw6sDw9Hnsl6B4f8XaN0iBa6QTwYk3mPfM3naD0JNss_FVtmnWMtEOdptcFDTbYMT4iieAuTgSDlY5Vm-8/s320/Female+student.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br />Looking out onto a snow white B.C. landscape makes it even more unbelievable that we will soon be on the rutted roads and dusty red footpaths of Tanzania within a few days. Fields there will be transitioning from dry season browns to rich auburn reds, fresh turned soil soon ready for planting. At this time of year with the start of the short rains all the local farmers and school children will be balancing hoes or ‘jembe’ on their heads or on the back of bicycles, at the ready for tilling and tuned to ancient agricultural cycles. Most school children learn to farm, as well, as a part of their daily school lessons. We will be seeing it all and more in the next few days.<br /><br />Our own preparations and planning have miraculously come together (and it seems the moons as well) to allow Fiona Manning, her 11 yr old daughter Hailey, Rita Parikh and her daughter, Anjali and Eva and me to arrive within hours of each other at Kilimanjaro International for a much awaited reunion in Tanzania. Most of our time will be spent at Kilema Hospital, cradled on the lower third of Kilimanjaro between a series of deep ravines. It’s a simple and beautiful setting where I hope Rita and Fiona and the girls will enjoy meeting the welcoming cast of characters we spent our last year with; tender hearted Dr. Anna Nyaki, hardworking Mama Kessy( HIV nurse), Sister Mary Krista, full to bursting with laughter and Dr. Mushi , the philosopher king and excellent hospital intelligence source.<br /><br />Our January visit coincides with the start of the new school year where the fervor to obtain school supplies, uniforms and enrollment for another year is intense. Last year, on behalf of many generous Canadians who sent us to Tanzania with twelve thousand dollars, Chris and I funded some 60 orphan and /or vulnerable children from villages around Kilema Hospital to go to secondary school, supplied with uniforms and books. These children would otherwise have had their schooling interrupted and gone to work in the surrounding fields, or in the local markets to earn money for themselves and their families, languishing on the outside of the structured school experience that other more fortunate children enjoy. While Tanzania has been recognized by the UN for its efforts to improve literacy by building schools and making primary education free, there are many extra costs including uniforms, school supplies and at the secondary level there is no access without tuition which ranges from about Can$90- 250. A secondary education, though for the very fortunate, is a universal symbol of hope and progress in a country which is 159th out of 188 on the Human Development Index and where 90% of the population lives on $2 per day.<br /><br />In these last months the interest and enthusiasm of friends and donors has given us such a feeling of hope; that we can do something again for these children for another year. Thank you to all the friends and donors who have helped us match last year contributions and more. Many of those donors were children themselves like Evelyn, Amadea and Chloe, Solana and Claire following the example of Sage, Thea and Britta last year. Fundraising and contributions have totaled $13,000 and that directed through Cacha –Canadian African Community Health Alliance, will be wired ahead and waiting for us at Kilema to allocate. Can hardly wait to see excellent students like Stephen Lyimo from Himo who persistently sought support last year with such remarkable manners and excellent grades!<br /><br />We also received bundles of goods on the doorstep; bundles of fleece blankets, exquisite party dresses, eye glasses and shoes and shirts purchased from Value Village. St Patrick’s School filled boxes with collared shirts, trousers and P.E. shirts. Thank you everyone who pulled these items together during an already hectic season so we could fill duffels destined for Tanzy. It is great to arrive laden especially with goods for the tight-budgeted Kilema orphan and vulnerable children (OVC) program which supports some 200 children.<br /><br />Oak Bay Rotary recently directed two thousand dollars to fund sewing machines at the Kilema vocational school and a garden project at Kisaluni School, both a short walk from Kilema hospital and two sites which we will visit and follow up with on behalf of the local Rotary group and Dr. Perry Bamji. Thank you to them and to many Ontario Rotarians we will overlap within January who have been doing excellent work with school related construction/ projects in this region.<br /><br />Time will be fleeting with many jobs to do and schools and villages to visit but what a team to work with; Fiona, Rita, Angali, Hailey and Eva. Thank you to everyone one who has helped us head over to Tanzania with full resources in hand. I wonder if that beautiful girl, Mt. Kilimanjaro, will have the snow covering I see outside my window now. It will be a thrill to see her again especially with dear friends and our daughters. Stay tuned to see how the gal’s adventure plays out!</div></div></div></div></div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-44871273323284113782008-05-24T02:04:00.000-07:002008-05-24T02:15:05.433-07:00DEO GETS A NEW LEG<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQV5MsOCe0luSh-cfafpsn8bCtjXOxLvPJiAs_R9lPma4-LZCOA7NBzLhSC7BpTmy7wgG9knue6mg7IL_YDqJc6w7vvHFeOPezlvIqLd1lXguSAdnkzsYTVe_0S7RMWJBiZc34vNLm3o3p/s1600-h/DSC06571.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5203868911387802066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQV5MsOCe0luSh-cfafpsn8bCtjXOxLvPJiAs_R9lPma4-LZCOA7NBzLhSC7BpTmy7wgG9knue6mg7IL_YDqJc6w7vvHFeOPezlvIqLd1lXguSAdnkzsYTVe_0S7RMWJBiZc34vNLm3o3p/s320/DSC06571.JPG" border="0" /></a> Deo doesn't usually look this serious<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTiqc5MUXxoynrauxIGftIZKezQRCRIf2ioWEsTOQra_9lSjY-SUIgs8QFr_G40v49m-I7H2M7vTyFCoEsBLOF71wL1e6IuftFfFYOXIFG4P98gsR9nD3ZgRXCu0F0tb_ior-xsv8pAN1z/s1600-h/P5090135.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5203868919977736674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTiqc5MUXxoynrauxIGftIZKezQRCRIf2ioWEsTOQra_9lSjY-SUIgs8QFr_G40v49m-I7H2M7vTyFCoEsBLOF71wL1e6IuftFfFYOXIFG4P98gsR9nD3ZgRXCu0F0tb_ior-xsv8pAN1z/s320/P5090135.JPG" border="0" /></a> Very uncomfortable crutches<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAqGxy-xzzJ-HLmDbhcT9u6o73XB20TqGDzrHMjDhTXy_NOQYP9RVoK_ABp_ksB0E-5y6qGIn4ZBM_DtSGTWz3sVA6i_1unnWwoh1ceSpeC2J5ivKCUFt5c4GFfNdd4Fsv6ItgdENBLuE/s1600-h/P5090137.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5203868919977736690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAqGxy-xzzJ-HLmDbhcT9u6o73XB20TqGDzrHMjDhTXy_NOQYP9RVoK_ABp_ksB0E-5y6qGIn4ZBM_DtSGTWz3sVA6i_1unnWwoh1ceSpeC2J5ivKCUFt5c4GFfNdd4Fsv6ItgdENBLuE/s320/P5090137.JPG" border="0" /></a> This leg is way too big<br /><br />REPORT BY: SASHA FRASER<br /><div><br /><br />Deo is my friend who is here in Kilema Hospital. He is here because he needs an artificial leg. He always has a smile on his face and has adapted to his situation very quickly. In Kilema Hospital he zooms around with his crutches and sometimes plays tag with me, Eva, Lachlan or Nicholas and Vincent. Right now he is waiting for KCMC (Kilimanjaro Christian Medical College) in Moshi to outfit him for his new leg that Cacha is buying for him. About two weeks ago I went to KCMC hospital with Deo and his father. We went there to see Dr. Omar Kinyongo because he was the doctor who would outfit Deo for his new prosthetic leg. When I went into the office of doctor Omar it looked like it was an very old office, it had broken prosthetic legs everywhere, old tools, a huge drill and a big mysterious machine that was used to make the prosthetic legs,.<br /><br />For the first five minutes Dr. Omar tried to fit Deo with different legs. The first one was too big, so he went out of the room and came back in with a smaller one and it fit. Deo was very happy. I knew it because his eyes were shining with excitement. I think he was already thinking about going back to school. Because he didn’t have a prosthetic leg, he had not been in school for several months!<br /><br />Later when Dr. Omar had finished outfitting Deo, we went to a room full of gymnastic equipment. I asked him what this room was used for and he said it was used for people who were learning to walk again because of them having no leg. So Deo and I stayed there for about one to two hours. He was practising walking and I was playing with a wheelchair.<br /><br />I interviewed Deo and asked him several questions:<br /><br />-How do you feel having one leg?<br />-Do you ever get tired with crutches?<br />-How did you lose your leg?<br />-Where did they amputate your leg?<br />-Why did they amputate your leg?<br />-When you get your prosthetic leg are you going to return to school?<br />-Where is your school?<br /><br />His answers were:<br /><br />-“It doesn’t feel that good having one leg”<br />-“Yes I get tired some times from using my crutches’.<br />-“I was chasing my friend then it all went black and when I woke up I only had one leg”.<br />-“They amputated it at KCMC HOSPITAL in Moshi Town”.<br />-“They amputated it because my knee was broken so bad it was shattered”.<br />-“When I get my prosthetic I will return to school and be in form one”.<br />-“My school is in Kyala, up the mountain from Kilema”.<br /><br />Deos answers were always very short. I think he was very sad talking about losing his leg. </div><div><br />On my next visit to Tanzania I hope to see Deo with his new leg going back to school. I am very proud of my mom for helping Deo. My mom has put several days of effort into helping Deo get his new leg. Without her help he probably would still have no hope of getting a new leg. </div>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4642987709527691813.post-48833423958866398442008-05-20T00:22:00.000-07:002008-05-20T00:47:59.791-07:00Coming Home, Thankful for Gifts Received<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrI9nL2DjV-ZOLX6qFYSBC5JdLiFHZk_SLKBc91HBvnSZ3GSrm6IiB1qknSlAl9bKhXDvDnf86kREKb6jgPJo-AUw4B58Bm9s5-mW7WABAkUSIMUmfxVZzxJSs6BXTaqQ-sSGeUp3eOp8G/s1600-h/P5140156.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrI9nL2DjV-ZOLX6qFYSBC5JdLiFHZk_SLKBc91HBvnSZ3GSrm6IiB1qknSlAl9bKhXDvDnf86kREKb6jgPJo-AUw4B58Bm9s5-mW7WABAkUSIMUmfxVZzxJSs6BXTaqQ-sSGeUp3eOp8G/s320/P5140156.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202360027809671970" border="0" /></a> Saying <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Kwaheri</span> to the Indian Ocean<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGJJyrjSwNVJC1ebdXisrIVgKxwG3mRcw29njbPjFGg-c9SZ83Q5buY4XwbJvxDA6IybSCa10H_b0QN3S4lMBCpNnrV_0bhl5nK3K1OxPFdtKIpM6FzzmiyY0qkBcTy9HUQRHnXZHzMVo/s1600-h/2008+Tanzania+079.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGJJyrjSwNVJC1ebdXisrIVgKxwG3mRcw29njbPjFGg-c9SZ83Q5buY4XwbJvxDA6IybSCa10H_b0QN3S4lMBCpNnrV_0bhl5nK3K1OxPFdtKIpM6FzzmiyY0qkBcTy9HUQRHnXZHzMVo/s320/2008+Tanzania+079.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202359770111634130" border="0" /></a> Intrepid and joyful River Explorers<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDqhkj9IfsO75gBabG4L880B7UbK9Fcrr1hzZuS1NJVQ2H6C27mCVKbm70qBQS42UQ6m6OIcdwLx5Xh_QdFJoIVaihpIoo3OBvr0ugEj7uqL7-kCH0OUr3bxR-eUhjOR3F6HN4KM0H5vm/s1600-h/2008+Tanzania+096.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDqhkj9IfsO75gBabG4L880B7UbK9Fcrr1hzZuS1NJVQ2H6C27mCVKbm70qBQS42UQ6m6OIcdwLx5Xh_QdFJoIVaihpIoo3OBvr0ugEj7uqL7-kCH0OUr3bxR-eUhjOR3F6HN4KM0H5vm/s320/2008+Tanzania+096.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202359778701568754" border="0" /></a> The view from the office will never be the same....<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2RWzPUjYYMace3Wke3OEoSBCatJQcDUlhKZB2bjRbGpKWj_tpfeYPxX7Sugw7IwMFr0YstyOo5NMpJv_hVp7lYUOy1Epwg1ur7SNL74uANcBOai384RQ0e4aO5s4TwKPXu4knWeXe27R3/s1600-h/solar+lights+362.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2RWzPUjYYMace3Wke3OEoSBCatJQcDUlhKZB2bjRbGpKWj_tpfeYPxX7Sugw7IwMFr0YstyOo5NMpJv_hVp7lYUOy1Epwg1ur7SNL74uANcBOai384RQ0e4aO5s4TwKPXu4knWeXe27R3/s320/solar+lights+362.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202359778701568770" border="0" /></a> .............. see what I mean?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGhlY1T0tLmYl4n_VojQOLdUqqyCQ8_qxu7IsmIrElZBCSYOzDmBy-ZhX_WOrpbuQK-STfr29z9Qx8b_hbJhThGOMQ5MOKGpDGK99zWdVxf44VKxo5MUxesQOiI_IvWPKoV3dzrYJUtTj/s1600-h/P5070107.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGhlY1T0tLmYl4n_VojQOLdUqqyCQ8_qxu7IsmIrElZBCSYOzDmBy-ZhX_WOrpbuQK-STfr29z9Qx8b_hbJhThGOMQ5MOKGpDGK99zWdVxf44VKxo5MUxesQOiI_IvWPKoV3dzrYJUtTj/s320/P5070107.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202359782996536082" border="0" /></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Winifrida's</span> gift to Chris<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="">“There’s a whole world out there that needs you, down the street or across the ocean. Give.”<o:p></o:p></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><o:p> </o:p></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style="">Bill Clinton, <i style="">Giving</i></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><i style=""><br /></i></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The chilly, misty air was undeniably Victorian, startlingly so. </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">“Must mean it’s time to go home,” flashes through my mind as I fasten my coat, a rare event for me in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Kilema</span>.<span style=""> </span>But, as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Steph</span> and I walk through quiet, dripping trails lined with coffee and banana plants and the occasional flame tree in flower, the familiarity of the scenes around me brings a surprising rejoinder, “Maybe you are home.”<span style=""> </span>Quite a bolt that second one: the surprising feeling that <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Kilema</span> and environs have, in their own way, come to feel like a home as well.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The feeling is reinforced by the familiar rhythm of life around us.<span style=""> </span>We pass Sunday greetings to familiar faces returning home from church or social visits, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">bibis</span> and mothers often resplendent in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">kitenges</span> and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">kangas</span> of spectacular colour and pattern.<span style=""> </span>Soccer buddies of mine jokingly smile and call, “<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Mzungu</span>”, offering a gentle fist tap greeting, or even better, the three part handshake culminating in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">thumbsnap</span> and mutual thumbs up to each other.<span style=""> </span>Orphans or HIV positive patients I have treated in the HIV Centre wave and we see familiar faces gathered at their corner <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">mbege</span> bars for Sunday afternoon banana beer and conversation.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We are returning home from a special afternoon with a dear colleague from the HIV Centre, Mama Adella <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Kessy</span> (seen in several of the photo albums we have posted online this year), and have shared beer and wonderful food from her garden as she has regaled us with stories from her life among the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Chaggas</span> of Kilimanjaro, most incredibly tales of her grandmother who died at age 126 in 1996 and insisted that only dancing be allowed at her memorial.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I glance at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Steph</span>’s radiant face as she speaks with Mama <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Kessy</span> and, somewhat beer-assisted, catch hold of a small ray of her radiance, which <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">distills</span> into an enduring feeling of thankfulness for all the gifts given us here.<span style=""> </span>The support from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">CACHA</span> to come and be in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">Kilema</span>; the endless generosity of the hospital community which has welcomed, housed and fed us; the similarly endless generosity and support from so many<span style=""> </span>friends in Victoria and elsewhere for the children and families we are working with; the devotion of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">Babu</span> Ross and Bibi Judy in coming all the way here to visit and the love of all members of our families in supporting and encouraging us.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Gifts have been given which will always remain with me.<span style=""> </span>Worn <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">bibis</span> walking hours to ensure their HIV-infected grandchildren will see a doctor and squeezing my hand joyfully as they leave, “<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">Asante</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">mwa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">nangu</span>” (thank you my child); joyful smiles of HIV patients on treatment who return bearing gifts of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">mangoes</span> and avocados after serious illness, gaining weight, thriving and believing they have a future; meeting dozens of visiting Canadians, old and young, here with Rotary and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">CACHA</span>, determined to contribute to positive change in the lives of people here (this most movingly the case recently with my four fabulous colleagues from Victoria – Carolyn, Anne, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">Caite</span> and Irene – what a delight to have now been shoulder to shoulder with them on two continents).</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">Winifrida</span>’s smile, featured above, has been among the most surprising gifts.<span style=""> </span>In December, I feared she was sliding to AIDS as she lost weight and had worsening skin manifestations of HIV and started to lose hope, missing school and not taking her medications.<span style=""> </span>“<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">Kula</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">kula</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">kula</span>”, (eat, eat, eat) and “<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">dawa</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">kila</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">siku</span>” (medication every day) were my twin exhortations to her and she has been a star on both fronts, improving wonderfully in all respects and delighting in literally surprising me with from behind hugs and arm grabs whenever she visits the Centre.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The greatest gift?<span style=""> </span>My family.<span style=""> </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">Steph</span> has astounded me this year with her relentless passion for her work, logging unbelievable hours and absolutely delighting in the people she has met and relationships she has forged.<span style=""> </span>She will be the first to admit what a profound impact being here has had and plans to return soon, possibly in Jan 2009 with Eva.<span style=""> </span><st1:place st="on"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">Lachlan</span></st1:place>, Eva and Sasha have been marvellously resilient in the face of change and challenge, have grown in ways I cannot yet appreciate.<span style=""> </span>I look forward immensely to seeing how our <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">Kilema</span> time shapes their futures.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The children have been wonderful givers and helpers themselves: from serving or handing out food during orphan days to medication counting for health caravans to school and play supplies for colleagues and soccer friends.<span style=""> </span>They have been brave witnesses, far from home and what is comfortable for them, but still meeting face on the injustices and challenges of life here: severe corporal punishment of fellow students at school; extreme poverty around them and severe illness and frequent deaths at the hospital.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I have delighted in their insights: they have remarked often how people here surprise and amaze them in their strength and ability to carry on with smiles and laughter.<span style=""> </span>They have learned to always seek out the possibilities in the faces they encounter.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">As I enter the time of long good byes with my ever gracious and graceful Tanzanian friends and turn west and north with excited anticipation at west coast summer reunions, Sunday’s feeling of thankfulness again returns.<span style=""> </span>I feel the time has been far too fleeting, and that some or all of us will at some point return to this gorgeous place which has started to feel like a second home.<span style=""> </span>I leave with some contentment at<span style=""> </span>what I have been able to give, but understand to my core that I have been given and received much, much more.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Yes, a good time to go home. <st1:country-region st="on"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">Asante</span></st1:country-region> <st1:place st="on"><st1:city st="on"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">sana</span></st1:city></st1:place> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">Kilema</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>Fraser Malahoffshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07970081466985053988noreply@blogger.com0