Kilimanjaro Calls David Up !

Kilimanjaro Climb

Well this mountain has been calling to me since we first arrived in Tanzania in early January.  From those first views from the Moshi YMCA and it’s omnipresence at Kilema Hospital, I have been looking and observing its various moods and routes.  

The day arrived on Friday, January 20 when we were picked up by the Marangu Hotel driver to be taken for our equipment outfitting and climb briefing.   I was greatly relieve to hear that I would have company on my climb as when I had checked in earlier in the week, I was the only client !  I now had 3 young Swiss hikers with me. (2x20 yr olds women and 1 22 yr old guy).  My three swiss companions were from a small Dorf (village) about 45 minutes from Zurich.  Raphael (22 yrs old) and Monika (20 yrs old)  were cousins and Sybil (20 yrs old) was a long time friend.  Raphael was a carpenter and farmer and the young women worked with disable children.  They spoke Swiss-German so my hike would also be a cultural language experience as I would be learning some Swiss German expressions on this trip.   Needless to say, I was a bit concerned that this old guy may have his work cut out for him to keep up with these “kids” when we reached the trailhead.

I outfitted myself with some final equipment items and had my gear “inspected” by the equipment manager.   A somewhat earnest Dora (initial impression is that she had a bit of the Equipment Nazi in her|) had a look at my sleeping bag and other cold weather clothing carefully to ensure that I would not suffer from the affects of the colder weather as we ascended to the higher camps.    I assured her that both my sleeping bags and other cold weather equipment and withstood the extremes of West Coast mountain conditions but she was unperturbed and pointed to a few missing items that she felt I should have in my backpack.    She helped me pick out a balaclava and some warmer long underwear/gloves, which would prove to be great suggestions as we moved further up the mountain.

Dora checks out my gear to see if it will pass.

Seamus gives the Swiss Group the low down.

We had a great briefing from one of the family members that owns the hotel. Seamus provided us with great insights from someone that has climbed the mountain many times and  he emphasized a motto that would be a refrain echoed throughout the trip – pole pole (slowly slowly), drink lots of water and eat as much as you can force down at each sitting.  Afterwards, we went to meet our support crew of guides, cooks and porters.  They totalled 13 and I must admit that I felt as though I was heading out on major Himalayan expedition.   We left our Kilema support crew behind as we headed out on the road to our trailhead with the the climbing group and support team.   As we had chosen the Rongai route, it required us to head around to the Kenyan side of the mountain.   After a 1.5 hour drive, we arrived at the trailhead to our first camp, Simba Camp.

It was a nice and relaxed 3 hour hike which gave us time to get know each other and get familiar with the pace of the group.   We quickly noticed that both the cook and porters moved at a significant faster pace than the guides and hikers.   This would allow them to get out ahead of their clients so that both their accommodation and food would be under preparation well before we arrived.   With being accustomed to both packing food and shelter and  setting up and breaking camp when I go in the outdoors in Canada, this was a guilty pleasure that I could get used to !

After a our leisurely hike through a lower forest, we found ourselves at our first camp, Simba.  We were introduced to our first full course meal on the trail, complete with a soup appetizer, main course and dessert !   We realized that we would not go hungry on this trip !    The guide gave us our nightly briefing on the next day and had us prepare for a slightly longer hike on the next day.

We started our hike towards Kikelelwa the next morning at 8:30am.  At this point, the terrain become slightly steeper and the forest canopy disappeared and was replaced by low bushes and rockier and more exposed terrain.    Pace and distance on this leg of the trip gave us a good test and was well paced by our intrepid pace setter, Ernest.   An interesting character with quiet and determined demeanor and physically strong like a bull.   We are quite familiar with the pace attributed to Swiss Guides whereby the stride does not change whether the guide is ascending, descending or on flat terrain.   Ernest carried this motto to Tanzanian and established his own Tanzanian guide pace.  Quite remarkable as he did not walk particularly fast but was the hallmark of consistency under tougher conditions (as we would learn later in the trip).  He managed to keep this pace while carrying multiple items in a backpack, over his shoulder and on his head !

 We arrived at Kikelelwa later in the afternoon and as before, camp was setup and cooking in progress.   At this point, the sister peak of Kilimanjaro, Mwenzi, was beginning to loom large in the distance.   A spectacular peak, which although not as high as Mt.Kilimanjaro,  presents a much greater climbing challenge than it’s higher sibling.   We enjoyed another great meal, and our cook, Nico, put together the first Lasgna (& probably last) dinner above 3000 metres that I have ever had.

An example of the cooking magic that the crew worked up for us on the mountain !

As we approached this campsite, we had noticed a plume of smoke that had started back close to our first camp (Simba).  The guides had indicated that it was likely started accidently by honey farmers that light fires to smoke out the bees when the want to harvest.   With the high winds blowing across the slopes this bush fire had spread quite dramatically and we were concerned that it may blow up the hillside.  The guiding team seemed quite calm when we approached them with our concern and merely said – “Hakuna Matata”” (loose translation – it is ok, take it easy).  Sure enough, the smoke trail and fire glow were gone when we awoke the next morning.

The next day dawned clear again, and after yet another great breakfast, we proceeded onto the Tarn Camp at Mawenzi.   This camp would be at the foot of Mawenzi and provide a very close-up view of this peak.   As we proceeded towards Mawenzi, the terrain became increasingly more like a desert and low scrub brush was replaced rock and rubble and with any vegetation centred oasis type conditions (small creeks, etc).

Mawenzi Camp(our tent in front)

Prior to dinner, our guides took us up above the camp to get a closer view of the Mawenzi.   As we reached the top of the ridge, our expedition’s goal was revealed to us in greater detail than we had seen prior to this point.   At our left we could see the craggy spires of Mawenzi and at our right the open slopes of Kilimanjaro with the approach to Gillman’s Point clearly visible above Kibo Hut.   With our final destination in sight, sleep that night was going to prove a little more difficult.

Just below Mawenzi - only one more day to the summit !

After a fitful sleep likely due to nerves and the altitude, we set off across the great divide between Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro.   This moonscape terrain between the two peaks is easy walking but buffeted by strong winds and that every present dust and dirt that is part of this section of the climb.  The travel time  was estimated between 3-5 hours and our guides were even more emphatic on our pacing – pole pole – as we were to gain only 200-300 metres but this was technically summit day for us as we would setting off for the peak at midnight on this day so they were very keen to keep our energy levels up !   So what does this writer go off and do ?   Feeling good and wanting to test myself, I strode off at a slightly faster pole pole pace !   I arrived ahead of most of the group and helped with some of the camp setup in very high winds. 

After a light lunch, we explored the surrounding carmp area including Kibo Hut and had a small walk up the route to Gillman’s point that we would climbing later that evening.

There was nervousness in the group with the realization that we would be making the final ascent up to the peak in just a few hours.  We prepared the contents of our summit backpack prior to going to bed and retired at 6:00pm.

Nymon brings in the pre-summit carbo loading pasta meal

Summit Night

After dinner, the team retired to bed to try and get some sleep prior to our 11:00pm wake-up call.   The wind had calmed down so we were hopeful that we could get some sleep before starting our midnight ascent.    Unfortunately, a combination of nerves, altitude and an ever increasing wind conspired to keep me awake until the call came to get up.  As a result, I was the first one in the cook tent having my tea and biscuits as the rest of the team came in.    At this point, the wind was very strong and Dora’s warning’s of the cold came back to me.   I had dressed with just enough layers to be a little cold and was anxious to get going once we had been assembled by the guides.   A number of groups had already set out and we could see their groupings of headlamps ahead of us as we started on our ascent.

Ernest led the way with his usual steady and consistent pacing.   To resist the urge to go to fast, I fell in behind my Swiss friends and we kept a very consistent pace as we proceeded up the first section.   The wind, darkness and cold combined to make it a very eerie and surreal atmosphere for climbing.   We began to catch up with some of the other groups as we proceeded up the trail.  As we passed each other, there was a quiet  acknowledgement of the task at hand and best wishes.   After each hour, we would ask the guides on our progress as we really thought that we would be come under the expected 5 hours to Gillman Point.  Alas, we were always told that we were still on track for the 5 hour timeframe.   At around the last hour of the ascent, the girls were beginning to feel the altitude and we resting more.   Raphi and I both felt it as well but appeared to have a little more energy   After acknowledging to Ernest that we wanted to get to Uhuru Peak for sunrise, he quickly stepped in and led us to Gillman’s Point as fast a possible and left the girls with Elias and Stephan.

At this point, we were feeling fine and moved onto Gillman’s Point which we made within a 10-15 minutes.   The altitude and lack of sleep was beginning to hit me at Gillmans and when Ernest indicated that we need to hurry to reach Uhuru by sunrise, I was not sure I was able.  I felt that I could sleep standing up but once Ernest and Raphael started out, there was no way that I was going to be left behind.   We set out on the rim trail at a good pace.   It was well marked and worn but it traversed a few snow slopes that required some careful walking.    As we proceeded down the trail, I needed quick breaks to keep myself energized and as we approached the high trail, I could see the sky begin to glow red and I knew that it would be close.   As I came up on the ridge, the trail was filled with other climbers and they helped drag me along to the summit in time to see the sun begin to rise.   Ernest, Raphael and I gathered together for some summit photos.   To our surprise, just after the sun had begun to rise, the girls and remaining guides (Elias, and Stephen) arrived.   We had a great reunion on the peak with the group and took a photo of us all on the summit to celebrate our group achievement.

Sunrise summit at Uhuru with Ernest

Crater Rim Trail

Raphael "scree laufen" down the slope to Kibo

The entire group – David, guides Stephen, Elias, and Ernest (seated) Sybil, Monika and Raphael (seated) on the Top of Africa

We came away from the summit exhilarated and proceeded back along the rim trail.   We had great views of the upper glaciers (over 50 metres high), crater and surrounding peaks (Mt. Mehru, etc).   The group descended along the trail to Gillman’s and as soon as the slope permitted, we engaged in some “scree skiing” (or scree laufen auf deutsche).   Despite weary and sleepy bodies, we were able manage a few turns in our descent to Kibo Hut,

After our return to Kibo, we were allowed a few hours rest, prior to packing up and heading down towards Horombo camp on the Marangu route.

The Descent – Kibo to Horombo and back to Marangu Hotel

The descent would take us down a different route than our ascent.  We had ascended on the drier side (Kenyan side) and we would descend on the Tanzanian side down the popular Marangu route.  

We had one last camp at Horombo Camp prior to finishing the descent at Marangu gate.  It was 3-4 hour descent from Kibo to Horombo, and we could feel the affect altitude begin to fall away as we descended.   We camped next to the hut facilities at the Horombo camp and enjoyed a few more amenities in comparison to Kibo although the price tag on the Kilimanjaro beer discouraged any pre-mature celebrations.   All of us caught up on some much needed sleep from our deprivation of the last couple of days.

In the morning, we had dress rehearsal for our celebration in the afternoon, as we saw a few groups celebrating their climb by gathering in a circle and singing the traditional Kilimanjaro song

Out final leg of the descent saw the trail move through scrub brush to lush forest.    The following sequence of photos show some of the diversity in the vegetation as we made our descent.

Marangu Hotel

The weary porters, guides, cooks and climbers returned to Marangu hotel for a welcome shower and cleanup.   We had a wonderful post-climb party with the group where we celebrated and treated to a stirring rendition of the Kilimanjaro Song by the group and each of us received our official certificates.

Binti Blog #2: Tanzania vs. Canada

Having been in Tanzania for three weeks, we’ve come to realise many differences between here and Canada.  There are a couple of similarities, but the differences are much more numerous.  We love it both here and in Canada but there are things that could be better about each country.  The following points are the biggest differences between Tanzania and Canada that we’ve seen.

In our opinion the people here dress much more uniquely than in Canada.  The men dress more like westerners but the women are the ones with the very striking clothing.  There’s a huge variety of Kitenges and Kangas which are two different types of big beautifully patterned fabric that women wrap around themselves in many different ways.  A Kanga is a cheaper, plainer fabric that they use to travel in and to use as a simple wrap.  A Kitenge on the other hand, is a more expensive fabric that is multicoloured, has more original patterns and is what they make clothes out of.  Many women also use it to wrap around themselves as a skirt or dress. The things they can do with an unstructured piece of cloth are amazing.  One of the things we like about the clothing here is that you can go out, choose a Kitenge that you like, and have a specially tailored outfit made the way you want it that no one else can have.  You don’t often see people showing a lot of skin here.  People here usually wear clothes that cover their shoulders and knees because a large number of Tanzanians are Muslims.

            From our experience, transportation here is unpredictable, uncomfortable and most of the time unorganised. The main form of transportation that we’ve used is called dalla dallas that are minivan type things used in the more rural areas. They are the African equivalent of buses.  You can normally count on them crammed with way over 25 people  when there are actually only 20 seats.  The best dalla dalla to get onto is one with a  people inside because you know it’s leaving soon, but you get the luxury of having a seat.  If you ever have to stand in a dalla dalla, you’re squished in between sweaty bodies; reaching over heads to find a hand hold so you won’t fall over and completely crouched over so you don’t hit the ceiling.  But it’s really not that bad and you get used to it after awhile. It becomes rather enjoyable watching the commotion of the bus and the scenery passes you by.  By the end of the ride you often can’t find your own feet, but you’ll have met a new person and will have a new story to share.

            In Canada, education is taken for granted.  It’s just a part of your life and for the most part you don’t have to go through much trouble to get it.  In Tanzania, along with many other countries in the world, it’s a completely different story. .  An education here is one of the most valuable things you can have.  With an education comes a good job hopefully, a better source of income and a more comfortable way of life. The main reason we come here is to support kids and orphans with families that don’t have enough money to pay for tuition. Only a small portion of kids here have the luxury of going to school. It starts with primary school where there’s no real tuition but you have to pay for lunch, school supplies and uniforms which can be a lot for many families. After seven years of Primary, Secondary comes along with tuition ranging from 100,000 to over 1,000,000 shillings.  How is it expected that 89% of the population that lives on 2$ a day will pay that much for their children to go to school? We found that the kids are so much more eager to go to school and learn here, than in Canada.  They want to learn and do well in school because they know if they don’t their life will be more difficult.  After seeing the reality of how important education is, we think that we’ll go back to school a bit more grateful.

            The differences between Tanzania and Canada are vast, but over all people are just people and like everyone else around the world; they just want a better life for themselves for themselves and their kids.  We hope that in the near future, the government will take control of the situation and will pay for school so every child will have an opportunity to get an education.

The Bintis

After Eva’s last trip to Africa in 2009 I wondered what impressions, memories and comfort level she’d experience this trip.  As it turns out our daughters or bintis have been intrepid and swiftly well adjusted to cultural norms here regarding dress and behaviour.  Both are more likely to be found in African print skirts and T-shirts, something neither David or I ever thought we would see. “ Shikamoo”, the greeting of respect to elders meaning I put myself under your feet, is being used comfortably now and the stream of locals we pass on our way are so pleased to know the bintis are well prepared. 

Surprisingly the girls have been eager to wander on their own within a safe radius.  Leaving David, Mary and me in a Lasso village bar with sodas, Serengeties and HBC Thaddeus Mzaki, the girls walked down the mountain side, crossed a river flowing from  Kilimanjaro and climbed up the other side of the valley, passing through Mkyashi on the way back to Kilema.  We watched them amble off on the red clay framed by grasses and  banana palms  with amazing nonchalance, feeling at home.   On market day they wandered away from us in the busy ‘sekoni’ or market,  into throngs of kitenge wrapped women, mounds of tomatoes, salt, dried tilapia fish from Lake Victoria, tea, soda bottles filled with vegetable oil, others filled with kerosene.   Later when we met them, Caroline’s arms were filled with mangos and corn which they later planned to grill over coals.  When we stayed backed at sekoni they sauntered off to Kilema hospital, weaving past a cross-section of Tanzanian life; the elegant, the aged, the hard at work, the destitute, the colourfully wrapped, the contemporary, the mentally ill, the educated, the intoxicated and the young.  The girls held their own quite well. 

While reviewing sponsored students at Kirefure primary school, the bintis offered an impromptu geography lesson and organized teams for a quick game of soccer. They have sat in on school meetings and student reviews with patience and interest. They have been riding dalla dalla’s without anxiety, shoulder to shoulder, knee to knee, hip to hip with villagers. They have been teaching computer to HBC Augustine Shayo, who has requested computer training from me for four years and has finally realized a dream.  The girls recently worked the Pamoja Tunaweza medical caravan with friend Sidonie, and learned how to use a electronic b/p cuff and screen for high blood pressures! And high some were! At the Kilema OVC program they have carried food sacks, measured out beans for  distribution, fitted shirts, offered up school supplies and support.  A few days ago Caroline and Eva  made out bank deposit slips and counted shillings (eliminating the most soiled and flimsy) for student tuition payments at the CRDB bank in Marangu and reflected on the generosity of fellow students at Central Middle School who provided money to send  two students to Darajani Secondary School, Daniel and Lucina.  Many thanks to Central students!

No complaints about missed meals, no snacks, cold showers,bug bites, pit toilets, long walks, dust, heat, bugs or geckos…..well I could be wrong about geckos.   Despite all the surrounding strangeness and physical discomfort when asked what the greatest challenge is Caroline says, “the language, trying to understand what people are saying and sometimes the staring.”  Eva’s incisive answer, “Nothing really...... maybe the bugs.”  In all, the bintis have been doing a great job over here and we are exceedingly proud of them.   

Augustine Shayo learns about computers

I was introduced to Augustine by Stephanie on the 2nd day of our stay at Kilema hospital.   Augustine is an important cog in the OVC machinery for Stephanie and the team.   He is a HBC (Home Based Care) volunteer who lives just below Kilema hospital in Mullo village which is a 40 minute walk through a beautiful valley below Kisuluni Primary and Secondary school.    Augustine is an important ":man on the ground" for Stephanie when when she arrives in Kilema as he is integral in her work to track down sponsored students and an important liaison and translator when she performs home visits.  Much of the OVC work would more difficult if not for Augustine's work in helping the team.


Augustine has had a long-term interest in learning more about computers and when David arrived with 2 laptops, he jumped at the chance to learn more about how computers work.   David and the girls (Eva and Caroline) sat with Augustine for many hours showing him how to use e-mail, document programs, internet browsers and other tools.   He was a very attentive student and learned a lot in the days that we were together.

He has now joined the world of the e-mail and can be reached at augustineshayo@gmail.com.   He currently does not have a computer but will be accessing e-mail by visiting a local Vocational school.

As I am teaching Augustine about computers, this blog is also a teaching tool for him and he is contributing to this blog below in Swahili.

For those of you that would like to translate, you can use Google Translate (www.google.com/translate) to find out what he has written below:

From the keyboard of Augustine Shayo:

Thank  for being together  David Marry and Stephanie I will work both for home visit until you leave.   We have great number watoto yatima kwa mfano Mandaka wameongezeka na kufikia mia na tano mwishoni mwa mwaka 2011 pia kwa wale walioshinda wamekosa nafasi ya kuendelea na masomo kutokana na ukosefu wa Ada 

The student is focused on his next lesson.

David and Augustine - January-2012

Caroline and Eva:Bloggy blogs

These past few weeks have been an amazing experience. So far everything has gone smoothly and we've learned so much already. Tanzania has so many great components; one of our favourite things is the friendly atmosphere. The people here are always smiling and kind wherever we go locals come, shake our hands and welcome us to their country by saying 'karibu' which is Swahili for 'welcome'. We have always wanted to come to Tanzania together and its surreal that that it's actually happening and going so well!

We started out with an incredible safari to two of Tanzania's most well known and highly recommended wildlife parks. The first wildlife park we went to was called Tarangire National park, where we stayed at our favourite tented lodge. The best part is that it has a panorama view of the park and of animals splashing below in the river. Next we went to Ngorongoro Crater where we saw a larger number of animals. Seeing such exotic animals living alongside each other in their natural habitats was unbelievable.

Since we've been in Kilema I've noticed that it continues to improve and the people are doing very well. Our first full day in Kilema was the distribution day. Distribution day is when the O.V.C. ( Orphaned and Vulnerable Children) kids come to get supplies for the new school year. When we got there fairly early that morning, there were already many kids lined up to get their supplies. We had them wait while we got everything set up, and by the time we were ready to let them in we had over 100 kids but not all were registered in the program to get the supplies. There was a steady flow of kids who came in to get black school shoes, socks, skirts or shorts, shirts, sweaters, notebooks, pens, pencils and shoe polish. It felt great to be able to help the kids out. This was the first distribution day. We had another one where instead of giving out school supplies we have out beans, flour, ground up corn, oil and soap.

A couple of days ago, we joined in on a Medical Caravan at Pamoja Tunaweza. A Medical Caravan is when doctors from all around North America go to neighbouring villages around the district of Kilimanjaro, set up clinics and give free medical attention. Pamoja Tunaweza is a project affiliated with an NGO(non-government organisation) called CACHA that specializes in women's health care, but also has a free clinic in Moshi for children and men as well.

Here is a summary of how our day went. We had to wake up rather early (about 6:30) to start the day, then got on a bus with a bunch of other volunteers and doctors to go to the small village outside of Moshi. The clinic that was already there was very small but well maintained, and had ample staff and supplies. Our friends Hannah and Sid were part of our team working triage. Triage is where registration, and blood pressure and weight are measured. We were assigned to blood pressure and weight. It was interesting how many people had problems with their blood pressure yet weighed so little. We had two rather alarming situations. The first was when we took the blood pressure of a middle aged man, and it was almost 200/110 which is abnormally high. The next one was a teenage girl who was sitting there perfectly normal and had a pulse of 160. That just shows how people are living with such extreme conditions, without even knowing it.

From the moment we got off the plane to exploring the rural villages to helping in every way we can, this trip has been unique and incredible. We're so happy that so far we've been able to have many unforgettable experiences and hopefully many more to come.

- Caroline + Eva (:

WHAT AN INITIATION – UNRIVALLED!

What a revelation our experience here in Tanzania is proving to be, and especially living amongst the community even for these two weeks here in Kilema, following our memorable safari, before I'm off for a few days to Zanzibar! So different from my remarkable years of work experience across a myriad of countries with a UK international aid agency! And why is this? Living within the community and with Steph as such a known and loved itinerant personality here, we're having such privileged access to so much, not least the work that is being done here thru' her KSF school support programme. This has included visiting schools and especially meeting families in their homes, of whom one of their children is a KSF beneficiary. In this way it's possible to get this brief immersion into what are the issues that face many families here – just yesterday we met a young girl living very basically with her grandmother (as so many children do) alongside two block houses built by her uncles, both of whom together with her parents have died. This way you come close to the realities of many for whom an entire generation has been lost so prematurely. But nevertheless the commitment is impressive in particular of the many grandmothers (bibis) to the education of their grandchildren. And no less so is the eagerness of children to secure an education as their route away from poverty to a different life experience from their predecessors.

And thru'out our days here in Kilema, we are out walking along the tracks & roads. What better way to meet people - all this amidst constant meeting and greeting with everyone we encounter! How often are we told Karibu Tanzania, Welcome to Tanzania, Karibuni home , Welcome home! All this is so heart felt, it's amazing to experience so constantly! The ritual of greeting exchanges in Swahili is very important – and I'm slowly feeling more familiar with the many permutations! And some of the learning of Swahili is made easier with karoti, kebechi, basi, kioski, teksi, petroli, baisikeli, texti being examples of commonly recognisable words to even the most uninitiated. Swahili is rooted in the Bantu language, then historically absorbing Arabic, some Portuguese and as here many English adaptations.

And so to the ubiquitous topic of local transport!! We're gaining ever more experience of using the dalla dallas (the local minibuses) that are filled & more to the gills with people seated, standing, hanging out of the windows. And when we were on one of the larger intercity buses from Moshi to Arusha, there was luggage and laden boxes endlessly stowed on the roof! Watching the dalla dallas while walking can be hair raising in itself as they can tilt at crazy angles as they negotiate the dirt roads! Another element of the travel experience here is just how random it can be! Today was such an example - we set out on foot for a couple of schools c.5 kms away, but soon after starting we hitched a lift with a Professor of Parasitology at the nearby medical centre who took us right to the door of the schools, his own house being metres away! Then on our return after a short distance we found a dalla dalla waiting which as soon as we boarded set off!
Our daily experiences are so varied, it's hard to know what to narrate! Here at the office, working with an older community member Augustine who is one of Steph's Home Based Care support team members for her programme, is one particularly delightful & moving example. For years he has wanted to learn basic computer skills, and it's been such a thrill for him – and for us – to enable this to happen with David as computer guru supporting him, but also Eva & Caroline, our 14 & 13 year olds! He now has a gmail account and this can open his world up & not least possibly allow him to keep contact with Steph between her visits.

So immersed are we in life here in Kilema, it's hard to realise we've only been here a week following our memorable safari. Despite having done two previously in southern Africa years back, this one in Tanzania outstripped them both in duration, scale, location and sheer quantity of animals. Indeed as Steph promised this was truly remarkable - nestling as it does in the Rift Valley such a sight in itself, not to mention then looking down from the Ngorogoro Crater rim. On arrival in Tanzania, my heart had soared when I first saw again the acacia trees with their distinctive flat tops and triangular shape. To be witnessing such density of breeds, we counted about 40 animal species (not least its 3K elephants) including many of its renowned bird population in Tarangire, and then another 30 almost exclusively animal species in Ngorogoro, and there in such quantities. Seeing the migrating wildebeest was a memorable sight! How often could one presume to have the chance of watching the birth of a Thompson's gazelle, and the heart stopping moments as the tentative calf made endless attempts before succeeding in standing! And all the while being so aware of all the hyenas we'd seen in the vicinity so recently – and both mother & baby looking so defenceless. Being up before sunrise on both days certainly paid off – the quantities visible were large indeed.

The other element of this area of Tanzania is its dense & verdant vegetation. On arrival at Kilema we scaled Nganga hill overlooking the hospital complex, from where it's almost impossible to believe that so many people live below (and plan to do a dawn raid on it tomorrow)! And as we walk the roads & tracks, that density is clear to see. Bananas are prolific here – all tasting different from the next! Having been so impressed by the centuries old Moorish system of irrigation in Andalucia in southern Spain, it's fascinating to realise that the ancient furrow system of irrigation here around Kilema is almost identical, allowing the many shambas (farms) in rotation to receive regular irrigation – tho' sadly their mutual family based system of maintenance is not as successful as it used to be prior to colonial intervention!

And so to close despite much more I could relate! Maybe this will give some further flavours of what visiting Kilema can give you!?

Mary Todd - Bristol, England

2012 Tulewasili Tanzania! We've arrived!

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It has been the fullest of days since leaving Canada on December 30 for our latest visit to Tanzania and we are aware of how tardy this first announcement comes! Samehani!
Mary Todd of Bristol, David Crossley and daughter Caroline are accompanying Eva and me to Kilema Hospital for a month of rural work and life in the Kilimanjaro foothills and after many days of movement we have finally arrived, by a cliff hugging dalla dalla, to peaceful Kilema. After settling into a completed visitor centre, rooms now named Serengeti, Arusha and Ngorogoro, the girls were quick to learn from Sr. Clarissa the workings of a kerosene lamp when the power predictably vanished as it does most evenings. We’ve have had a stream of greetings from our hosts and colleagues at the hospital, the refrain, “feel at home”, still ringing. Many are wide eyed to see Eva having grown into a young woman and they have paused to take in the stature of Caroline too. As always the welcome is warm and handshakes plenty and lingering.

Passing through Arusha a few days ago after safari (wow!), we met our first sponsored student who studies at Edmund Rice Secondary school. Weaving through an undulating dirt back road, brimming with industry and effort, open sewage, toddlers crawling and the occasional community water faucet, we finally arrived. What a pleasure to meet the headmaster and see this freshly renovated Catholic school and meet Lilian who looked smart in a red sweatered uniform. She took us on tour and described her life. She plays net ball for recreation, eats only ugali, beans and rice and no meat and would like to become a teacher at a higher level. With surprising confidence she corrected the headmaster’s error regarding her recent marks, which are good. She is 10th out of 34 students in her class. We look forward to many more student interviews and I’m sure there will be much news of progress.

Yesterday the annual distribution of school supplies and uniforms to the children served by the Kilema Orphan and Vulnerable Children Program allowed us to work along side Sunday and Ireni and to connect with grandmothers and children, seeing first hand where a sizeable portion of the OVC budget goes every year. Eva and Caroline learned how to fit a waist by holding the waist band around a child’s neck and they saw secondary children seize upon a bin of white shirts, some donated by Glen Lyon Norfolk and St. Andrew’s schools in Victoria. The book bags donated by Triple Shot and the Shaw sisters were snapped up and we locked the remainder for KSF Tuition Project students in the days to come. David and Mary helped fit shoes and navigate children from shoe to notebook station and generally relished this early contact with local village grandmothers and children. Our thanks for all the donated items we’ve begun to distribute

Mount Kilimanjaro has been obscured by thick cloud and David has been looking upward, perhaps praying for clear summiting later this month. Views were still spectacular from Ngangu Hill yesterday where we lingered in the long grass watching the light fall into long shadows. The thick coat of vegetation that shelters and sustains thousands of people living beneath is looking thicker with the heavy ‘short rains’ and with so much moisture I notice more mosquito. The girls have been culling as many as possible and we hear the happy slapping of flip flops on the wall into the night. David’s coffee grinder goes off every morning followed by a bug bite counts. We are all happily settling into life here.

Of course our thanks to everyone who has supported the project. This year I have $10,000 Canadian available for students as well as shirts, bags, English dictionaries (three given out today alone to senior students), fleece blankets, pens pencils, soccer balls. We have been sustained by interest and all manner of generosity and care. Thank you Rob and Priya for a spectacular New Years Eve dinner in Amsterdam, amidst the crackle of fireworks. Kilema will miss you this year. Tutaonana.